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The standard allowance most suppliers and estimating guides assume for ordinary work.
A rectangle's two sides, or the run of wall you measured round an L-shape, a bay or an alcove.
Skirting follows the foot of every wall, so a room that is not four straight walls is easiest measured wall by wall along the floor and added up; enter that total as the perimeter. Doorways come off either way.
The length of the room.
Measure along the floor from one wall to the opposite wall.
Tools needed: Tape measure
The width of the room.
Measure perpendicular to the length.
Tools needed: Tape measure
Doorway openings don't need baseboard.
Each standard doorway opening is assumed to be about 3 ft (0.9 m) wide.
The length trim is sold in at your supplier.
Longer is usually better here, because every joint in a run is a scarf that will open slightly as the timber moves and a wall with no joint in it never does. Skirting is forgiving about handling — it is cut and fitted at floor level, so length is limited by the doorways and the stairwell it has to come through rather than by what two people can hold up. Measure the longest straight wall first: if a single stick covers it, the run has no joint in it at all.
Extra trim for mitres, coped joints and the odd bad cut.
Taken against the whole run, so it grows with the length of skirting rather than with the number of corners. Ten suits a plain room with four corners; a bay, a chimney breast or a run of short returns turns more of each stick into offcuts that fit nowhere, and fifteen is the safer figure there.
Estimated baseboard & trim needed
50.65 linear ft
- Room perimeter (minus doorways)
- 46.05 linear ft
- Sticks needed
- 7 x 8 ft sticks
They open the calculator with your figures already in it
Baseboard & Trim Calculator: 50.65 linear ft — shown in imperial, US market. The link sets both, so the result they see is the one on your screen.
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How this was calculated
Formula source(s)
- Room perimeter = 2 x (length + width) for a rectangular room; trim is commonly stocked in 8, 10, 12, 14, and 16 ft sticks in North America, and in the 2.4, 3, 3.6, 4.2 and 4.8 m lengths metric merchants run, moulding there stepping by 300 mm
- 10-15% waste is standard to account for cuts, corners (mitered at 45°), and mistakes
Inputs used
- Measure the Room As
- A rectangle (length and width)
- Measured Perimeter
- 49 ft
- Room Length
- 13 ft
- Room Width
- 11.5 ft
- Number of Doorways
- 1
- Stock Stick Length
- 8 ft
- Cutting Waste (%)
- 10
Intermediate steps
- Room perimeter (minus doorways)
- 46.05 linear ft
- Sticks needed
- 7 x 8 ft sticks
What this calculation does not cover
- As a rectangle, the run is 2 x (length + width), four straight walls and square corners; an alcove, a chimney breast, a bay, an L-shaped plan or a return wall all change the length of skirting, so measure such a room wall by wall and give the total as a perimeter.
- Every doorway is deducted at a flat 0.9 m (3 ft) no matter what it measures, so a double door, a wide cased opening or a patio slider is under-deducted while a 760 mm (30 in) single door is over-deducted, and the architrave is not in the deduction at all — skirting dies into the casing, so the real gap at each opening is the opening plus the width of two casings.
- Waste is taken as a percentage of the whole run rather than against the number of cuts, so at the same setting a small room with eight mitred or coped corners loses proportionally more off the ends than one long wall does; the sources quote 10-15%, and a room like that belongs at the top of the band.
- The stick figure is one division — run with waste over a single stock length, rounded up — which is a quantity rather than a cut list: it assumes any wall longer than a stick will be scarf-jointed and that an offcut left on one wall can be carried to the next. Count wall by wall instead if you want the joint-free runs the stock-length note argues for, since a 4.6 m wall swallows two 2.4 m lengths and leaves 200 mm that fits nowhere.
- Nothing about the profile reaches the numbers — height, thickness, material and whether the base is a single section or a base with a separate shoe or cap moulding are all outside it, and a two-piece base means ordering this same perimeter twice in two sections. Fasteners, adhesive, filler, caulk and paint are not counted either, no price is attached to either figure, and each side is capped at 30 m, so a whole-floor take-off has to be broken into rooms.
Estimated cost — your price
This site holds no price list for this material — local prices vary too much to publish honestly. Enter your supplier's price and the result is costed with it.
Schematic layout — positions are illustrative, quantities are exact. This calculator is told how many doors and windows there are, never where they sit or how big each one is, so they are drawn evenly spaced at the standard allowance it deducts. Moving one would change nothing in the numbers above.
Part of bigger jobs
This trade is one line of several job takeoffs. Run the whole job and every other trade comes back with it, off the same measurements.
Or plan the space itself: measure it once, doors and windows included, and this figure comes back worked out on that space, with what goes with it.
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Computed in your browser — nothing you enter is uploaded. Presented in US customary units and US trade terminology. Where a formula follows a published standard, that standard and its edition are cited beside it on this page; where none governs, the page says so. Local amendments override model codes — verify against the code in force where you build.
Sources checked 2026-09-17 · v1.1.0
Regulatory standards & verification citations2
- Room perimeter = 2 x (length + width) for a rectangular room; trim is commonly stocked in 8, 10, 12, 14, and 16 ft sticks in North America, and in the 2.4, 3, 3.6, 4.2 and 4.8 m lengths metric merchants run, moulding there stepping by 300 mm
- 10-15% waste is standard to account for cuts, corners (mitered at 45°), and mistakes
Cite this page
Your workspace
Most jobs need more than one number. Add the calculators you need next and they open right here, underneath this one — your figures stay on screen and nothing is lost to a page change.
Tools and safety for this job
To fix skirting and trim. Generic types, no brands, no prices.
Protection this work requires
- Hardwood dust is a recognised carcinogen: extract at the tool and wear a P2/N95 respirator when cutting or sanding indoors.
- Saws, grinders and breakers run above 85 dB, where hearing damage accumulates and does not recover: defenders or plugs for every cut, not just the long ones.
- Nailing, chiselling and cutting all throw fragments: glasses to EN 166 or ANSI Z87.1, and goggles rather than glasses overhead.
Show the 6 tools this job needsHide tools
Essential
Claw hammer
Combination or framing square
Mitre saw
Recommended
Brad or finish nailer
Caulking gun
Filling knife
Also needed as materials: brad nails, caulk and sealant cartridges, mitre saw blades.
what each carpentry tool is for, and the spec that decides which to buy where one does.