Renovation & Construction

Door & Window Casing Calculator

Estimate the linear feet or metres of casing trim needed to frame door or window openings.

  • Answers as you type
  • Every formula cited
  • Calculated in your browser
SettingsSettings for this calculationUS
Market
Imperial · sales tax
Who is doing the work?

The standard allowance most suppliers and estimating guides assume for ordinary work.

Doors are cased on both jambs and the head; windows are cased on all four sides.

A door's threshold sits at the floor and isn't cased, unlike a window which is fully framed.

The height of the rough opening.

A standard prehung interior door is 80 in (2.03 m) tall.

Tools needed: Tape measure

The width of the rough opening.

A standard prehung interior door is about 32-36 in (0.81-0.91 m) wide.

Tools needed: Tape measure

How many identical door or window openings you're casing.

For openings of different sizes, run this calculator once per size and add the results.

The length casing stock is sold in at your supplier.

7 ft (2.1 m) sticks are a common minimum since a single door leg (head to floor) needs about 7 ft (2.1 m) with no seam.

Extra casing for mitre offcuts and a recut joint.

A mitre that opens because the jamb is out of plumb gets recut, and every recut takes a little off a leg or a head. This does not cover the corner overlap, where each mitred piece runs past the opening by the casing width at both ends; on a wide profile, add that to the opening size itself.

Casing needed

17.6 linear ft

High confidence
Casing needed (before waste)
16 linear ft
Sticks needed
3 x 7 ft sticks
Then change the inputs to see how far the answer moves.

Show calculation logic

How this was calculated

Formula source(s)

  • A door opening is cased on both side jambs plus the head (top): 2 x height + width. A window is cased on all four sides: 2 x (height + width)
  • 10% waste is standard for casing to account for 45° corner miters
  • Casing stock runs 7, 8 and 10 ft where trim is sold by the foot; the metric shelf carries the same product at 2.1, 2.4 and 3 m, the 2.1 m length being the one cut to clear a standard door height in a single piece

Inputs used

Opening Type
Door (3 sides — no bottom)
Opening Height
6.5 ft
Opening Width
3 ft
Number of Openings
1
Stock Stick Length
7 ft
Mitre Waste (%)
10

Intermediate steps

Casing needed (before waste)
16 linear ft
Sticks needed
3 x 7 ft sticks
Final result17.6 linear ft

What this calculation does not cover

  • The stick figure is a length division — the run with waste divided by the stock length and rounded up — and it takes no account of which piece has to come out of which stick. A 2.032 m door leg cut from an 8 ft (2.44 m) stick leaves 406 mm, too short for the 864 mm head, so four identical doors take ten sticks on the bench against the nine that division returns. Openings of different sizes have to be run separately and their stick counts added, because offcuts from one run are not pooled into another.
  • No casing width is collected, so the run is the bare opening and nothing else. A mitred picture frame round a window adds about eight times the casing width, since each of the four pieces runs past the opening at both ends: 456 mm for a 57 mm profile and 712 mm for an 89 mm one. A door adds about four times the casing width, roughly 0.75 linear ft on a standard opening with a 2 1/4 in architrave, which is already half of the default 10% allowance before a single mitre offcut is cut.
  • Rough opening, finished jamb and door leaf are three different heights and the calculator simply uses whichever you type. The 2.032 m default is an 80 in leaf rather than a rough opening, and it is not the leg length either: a leg is cut from the finished floor to the top of the head casing, which with an 89 mm architrave over that leaf sits past 2.13 m and will not come out of a 2.1 m stick at all, even though the total-length arithmetic accepts that stock length without complaint.
  • The window option assumes a four-sided picture frame. A window finished with a stool and apron is cased on three sides instead, so the four-sided figure overstates it by one opening width per window — 0.9 m on a 1.2 m by 0.9 m opening — while the stool itself, which runs past the legs by a horn at each end, and the apron beneath it are different sections this page does not produce.
  • Plinth blocks and corner rosettes change the geometry the figure assumes: a plinth block takes its own height, commonly 130 to 150 mm, off the foot of each leg, and rosettes remove the mitres so the head is cut square between them rather than long-point to long-point. Extension jambs or a jamb rip, needed wherever the wall finish stands proud of the jamb face, are a separate material in a separate width and are outside this total. The height and width fields stop at 3 m, so a 12 ft (3.66 m) patio slider or a wide bifold opening has to be split across runs.

Estimated cost — your price

This site holds no price list for this material — local prices vary too much to publish honestly. Enter your supplier's price and the result is costed with it.

3 ft0.914 m6.5 ft1.98 m19.5 sq ft1.81 m²3 ft1 m

Part of bigger jobs

This trade is one line of several job takeoffs. Run the whole job and every other trade comes back with it, off the same measurements.

Or plan the space itself: measure it once, doors and windows included, and this figure comes back worked out on that space, with what goes with it.

Computed in your browser — nothing you enter is uploaded. Presented in US customary units and US trade terminology. Where a formula follows a published standard, that standard and its edition are cited beside it on this page; where none governs, the page says so. Local amendments override model codes — verify against the code in force where you build.

Sources checked 2026-09-17 · v1.1.0

Regulatory standards & verification citations3
  1. A door opening is cased on both side jambs plus the head (top): 2 x height + width. A window is cased on all four sides: 2 x (height + width)
  2. 10% waste is standard for casing to account for 45° corner miters
  3. Casing stock runs 7, 8 and 10 ft where trim is sold by the foot; the metric shelf carries the same product at 2.1, 2.4 and 3 m, the 2.1 m length being the one cut to clear a standard door height in a single piece
Cite this page

Your workspace

Most jobs need more than one number. Add the calculators you need next and they open right here, underneath this one — your figures stay on screen and nothing is lost to a page change.

Tools and safety for this job

To fix skirting and trim. Generic types, no brands, no prices.

Protection this work requires

  • Hardwood dust is a recognised carcinogen: extract at the tool and wear a P2/N95 respirator when cutting or sanding indoors.
  • Saws, grinders and breakers run above 85 dB, where hearing damage accumulates and does not recover: defenders or plugs for every cut, not just the long ones.
  • Nailing, chiselling and cutting all throw fragments: glasses to EN 166 or ANSI Z87.1, and goggles rather than glasses overhead.
Show the 6 tools this job needs

Essential

  • Claw hammer

  • Combination or framing square

  • Mitre saw

Recommended

  • Brad or finish nailer

  • Caulking gun

  • Filling knife

Also needed as materials: brad nails, caulk and sealant cartridges, mitre saw blades.

what each carpentry tool is for, and the spec that decides which to buy where one does.

Now that you have the number

These guides cover the work this quantity is for — the first ones run this calculator inside the section that raises the question.

  • No corner is square, so the joints carry the job: where to scribe, where to mitre, and how to hold one margin round every door lining in the house.

  • The inspector arrives with a gap gauge rather than a spirit level, so the millimetres round the leaf, the seal runs and the latch are the whole job.

  • Hanging an Internal Dooruses this calculator

    A leaf fitted into a lining that has been moving for fifty years: what to scribe, what to plane, where the butts go and how the keep lands first time.

Called something else where you work? Architrave and casing · Dado rail and chair rail · Threshold and door sill — the term in each market, how close the equivalence really is, and the standard that governs it.

Worked example: Stud partition with a door — step 9 of 10

Already gone wrong? A door sticks, binds or will not close properly · The joints in my skirting, architrave or coving have opened up

How to calculate door & window casing in 7 steps

  1. Opening TypeDoors are cased on both jambs and the head; windows are cased on all four sides.
  2. Opening HeightThe height of the rough opening.
  3. Opening WidthThe width of the rough opening.
  4. Number of OpeningsHow many identical door or window openings you're casing.
  5. Stock Stick LengthThe length casing stock is sold in at your supplier.
  6. Mitre Waste (%)Extra casing for mitre offcuts and a recut joint.
  7. Casing neededThe tool computes the casing needed from those figures and shows the formula, its sources, and a confidence rating alongside it.

Casing needed by opening height

Page defaults, not your figures above.

Opening HeightCasing needed (linear ft)
3 ft9.72
4 ft11.9
5 ft14.1
6 ft16.3
7 ft18.5
8 ft20.7
9 ft22.9

Frequently asked questions

Does this include the casing width itself in the height/width measurement?
No: enter the rough opening or jamb dimensions, which is what this page measures. But the corner overlap is NOT covered by the 10% allowance, and this answer used to say it was. Each mitred piece runs past the opening by the casing width at both ends, so a four-sided window frame adds about eight times the casing width and a door about four times it: on a 1.2 by 0.9 m window that is 456 mm for a 57 mm profile and 712 mm for an 89 mm one, which on its own eats most or all of a 10% allowance. Add the overlap to the run yourself, and treat the mitre waste as covering offcuts only.
What about the exterior side of an exterior door or window?
This estimates one side (interior or exterior) at a time — run it twice with the same dimensions if you need to case both sides.
Do all my doors need to use the same trim profile?
Not required, but using one profile throughout a home is the more common design choice for visual consistency — mixing profiles is really a style decision, not a measuring one.
Preliminary estimate, not certified engineering. This tool produces an indicative quantity calculation for planning purposes only — it is not a certified structural analysis, a guaranteed material takeoff, or a substitute for building department approval. Always verify measurements on-site and have a licensed contractor or structural engineer review any load-bearing, code-sensitive, or safety-critical work before purchasing materials or starting construction. Spotted an arithmetic or standards error? Report it to contact@craftquantities.com with your inputs — a confirmed fix gets a permanent check of its own, so the same mistake cannot come back.