Estimating

Costing a Kitchen: Runs, Worktops and What Is Behind Them

A kitchen supplier prices the part that unscrews. Here is how to cost the circuits, the waste run and the floor that the doors will outlive.
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Nine metres of run, priced in an afternoon

The appointment lasts ninety minutes. You email dimensions ahead, a designer drops your walls into their planner, and by the end of it there is a rendered view with your window in it, a schedule of unit codes you have not read, and one figure at the bottom of the last page. The figure covers cabinets, worktop, and fitting. It was arrived at, whatever the presentation says, by counting the metres of run and multiplying.

That is a legitimate way to price cabinetry. The problem is what the figure implies: it reads like the price of a kitchen, and it is the price of the part of a kitchen that unscrews. Every door, drawer front, handle and cornice on that quote can be changed in a weekend by one person with a screwdriver. Behind them sits a second project with its own trades, its own sequence and no showroom — the circuits, the waste, the extract duct and the floor — and that half decides whether the room works for twenty years.

So the job is not to haggle the supplier's number down. It is to work out what has to be added to it before it becomes a budget, early enough that the answers change the layout rather than arriving as bad news in week three. What follows assumes a quote already in your hand; if you have three of them and they disagree, level them against each other first.

What a linear metre of kitchen is measured through

Base units come in modules — commonly 300, 400, 500, 600, 800 and 1000 mm wide — and the rate per metre on the quote is an average across whichever modules the design landed on. That average is not a property of your kitchen; it is a property of the design. A run made of 600 mm doors and a run of the same length made of drawer stacks are the same number of metres and materially different amounts of money, because a four-drawer pan unit carries four sets of runners and four fronts where a cupboard carries one. Ask which modules are in the schedule before comparing anyone's rate to anyone else's.

Corners are where run-metres stop describing storage. Turn a corner and a module is consumed in each direction while the volume behind it becomes a space you reach into. Whatever hardware makes it usable — a carousel, a pull-out, a blind-corner mechanism — is an extra line, and a galley that avoids corners will hold more than an L of identical length at identical cost. Worth knowing before you accept a shape, because it is the one geometric decision the pricing convention hides.

Then there is everything that is not a module. End panels where a run meets air. Cornice, pelmet and light rail. Plinths and their corner joints. Fillers and scribes where the run meets an out-of-plumb wall, which is every wall in an older house. Handles, sometimes. Integrated appliance door fronts, usually. Delivery, and assembly if the units arrive flat. None of it is optional once the design is fixed, and each item is a place where two quotes at the same headline rate diverge.

The document that settles all of it is the unit schedule, not the render. A schedule lists every module by code and quantity with the extras beneath it, and it is what the factory builds from. A supplier who will show you a three-dimensional view of your own kitchen but not the list of parts in it has made a decision about what you are allowed to compare.

The same rate per metre in three quote shapes, and what each one leaves for you
How the quote is writtenWhat the metre rate is buyingWhat lands on somebody else's invoice
Supply onlyCarcasses, doors, drawers, hinges and runners, delivered flat or assembled to your doorFitting labour, all end panels and scribes cut on site, worktop template and fit, every trade behind the units, removal of the old kitchen
Supply and fitThe above plus a fitter to hang and level it, usually with the worktop templated and fittedElectrical first and second fix, plumbing alterations, extract ducting, floor preparation and finish, tiling, decorating, waste disposal
Installed price, all tradesCabinetry, worktop, fitting and named allowances for the services and finishesWhatever the allowances turn out not to cover — which is a question about how the allowances were set, not about the rate
What to ask for in all three casesThe unit schedule with module codes and quantities, priced extras listed separatelyA written statement of which trades are included, in the sequence they will attend
The same rate per metre in three quote shapes, and what each one leaves for you

The doors are the cheap part

Put a fully priced kitchen into its parts and there are six of them: cabinetry, worktop, appliances, the services behind the walls, the finishes that follow the units in, and a contingency. The showroom quote is the first of those and part of the second. On a kitchen priced honestly all the way through, the cabinetry share of the total is routinely under half — and when a household discovers that late, it is because they spent their negotiating energy on the only number anyone showed them.

The share matters more than the total, because it tells you which way your money is leaning against a simple test of reversibility. A door front is four screws. A handle is two. A worktop is a day's work to lift and replace once the sink is disconnected. A circuit run in a chased wall behind a tiled splashback, a waste branch cast into a floor, a duct route through a ceiling void — those are the kitchen. Changing any of them later means taking the kitchen out to reach them, which is why the sensible instinct when a budget is tight runs opposite to the showroom's: hold the services line and take the money out of the doors.

Contingency on a kitchen behaves differently from contingency on a project you can survey, because the evidence is hidden behind the thing being removed. Nobody knows what the plaster behind the units looks like, what gauge the hob circuit is, which direction the waste runs, or how far out of level the floor is, until the day the old kitchen leaves in a skip and the new one is already on a lorry. Fifteen per cent is a floor rather than a cushion, and on most jobs it is spent in the first week.

Put the supplier's figure into the two cabinet lines and the worktop, then fill the services and finishes lines with real numbers from your own trades rather than leaving them at zero. The line to read is not the total — it is the cabinetry share of the total underneath it. If that share comes out above half, what you are holding is a quote for part of a kitchen.

Length of the base-unit run.

Carcass, door, drawer and fitting per linear metre.

Length of the wall-unit run.

Typically 55-65% of the base rate.

Worktop area.

Including template, cutouts and fitting.

Everything you are buying, as one figure.

The work behind the walls.

Everything after the units are in.

Kitchens hide more than most rooms.

Total kitchen cost

Needs your rates

This page does not assume a price. Enter yours and the answer appears here.

19.5 ft
Schematic, drawn to the proportions you entered — not to scale on screen.

What this calculation does not cover

  • Excludes structural work — removing a wall, forming an opening, or moving a soil stack are separate and much larger items.
  • Excludes the cost of living without a kitchen, which on a long fit is a real expense people do not budget for.

Worktop is bought by the slab and measured after the units are in

A stone or engineered worktop is not ordered from your drawing. It is templated on site, in the finished room, after the cabinets are fitted, levelled and fixed, because a millimetre of error in the run becomes a visible gap against a wall. That sequence carries a cost nobody quotes: one to three weeks between the units going in and the worktop arriving, with no work surface and no sink. The honest way to budget it is as the price of eating out for a fortnight rather than as a rounding error.

The unit of purchase is the slab, and the slab has a published size in the producer's own fabrication literature. Every run longer than that dimension contains a joint, and where the joint falls is a design decision — behind the hob, at a corner, mid-run in the window light. If you do not make it, the fabricator makes it on the basis of yield. Cutouts are priced individually: sink, hob, taps, drainer grooves, upstands, window sills, and the polished internal edge an undermount sink needs. Ask for the cutout schedule alongside the area, because a small kitchen with five cutouts can carry more fabrication cost than a larger one with two.

The area charged for is developed area, not run length: the return around an island, the overhang where stools go, the upstands, and any splashback carried up in the same material. Measure it that way before comparing two square-metre rates, because a quote that omits a full-height splashback is cheaper for a reason that has nothing to do with the material.

Material choice is where maintenance quietly enters the budget. Timber is refinishable, which means it is also a thing you will refinish. Laminate is unrepairable at the joint but replaceable cheaply. Stones differ from each other on sealing, on heat, and on how they behave at a narrow section between two cutouts — the strip between a hob and a sink is the piece that fails, and it is worth asking a fabricator what minimum width they will warrant before the layout is fixed.

  1. Fix the sink, tap and hob choices before the templater is booked, and have the actual items on site — a template is cut around the specific product, not around a category.
  2. Have the base units fitted, levelled and fixed to the wall, with any island frame secured to the floor, before the appointment.
  3. Decide the joint positions with the fabricator standing in the room, in the daylight the room actually gets.
  4. Confirm the overhang on every exposed edge, and any support a breakfast bar needs, before the template leaves.
  5. Book the plumber for the day after the worktop fit rather than the day of it, and expect the sink to be dry until then.

Total the runs including the corners, set the depth to your real cabinet depth plus the overhang rather than a nominal figure, and put the backsplash in at the height you are genuinely tiling in the same material. That developed area, not the length of the run, is the number your worktop is priced against.

The total length of counter along the wall(s), including corners.

Standard kitchen counter depth is about 25-26 in (64-66 cm).

4 in (10 cm) is a standard minimal splash; set higher for a full backsplash to the cabinets, or 0 for none.

Estimated countertop area needed

31.96 sq ft (total)

High confidence
Countertop surface
27.63 sq ft
Backsplash
4.33 sq ft

Estimated cost — your price

This site holds no price list for this material — local prices vary too much to publish honestly. Enter your supplier's price and the result is costed with it.

13 ft4 in
Schematic, drawn to the proportions you entered — not to scale on screen.

What this calculation does not cover

  • This is GROSS area, with nothing deducted for the sink, the hob, tap holes or drainer grooves — which is how a fabricator quotes at the enquiry stage, because the slab has to be bought whole and the cut-outs are labour rather than savings.
  • It is not a template. Stone and engineered stone are cut to a template taken in the finished room once the base units are in and levelled, and that measurement, not this one, is what gets cut.
  • Seams, edge profiles and the extra material a book-matched or heavily veined slab needs are priced separately and can move the slab count without moving this area.

What the circuits behind the units are being asked to do

A kitchen fitted in 1995 ran an oven, a hob, a fridge, a kettle and a toaster. The one being drawn for you runs an induction hob, a fan oven, a combination microwave, a dishwasher, a washing machine, a tall fridge-freezer, an extract hood, a boiling-water tap and eighteen light fittings. The cabinetry changed visibly; the electrical demand changed materially, and it is the part of the job that most often turns out to be bigger than the room suggested.

In the United States the answer is prescriptive and worth reading before a layout is agreed. Section 210.11(C)(1) of the National Electrical Code requires at least two 20-ampere small-appliance branch circuits for the receptacle outlets in the kitchen and the rooms sharing them, and Section 210.52(B) restricts what else may sit on those circuits. Section 210.52(C) governs receptacle placement along countertop and work surfaces, which decides where your sockets go before your tiler does. Section 210.8(A) requires ground-fault protection in kitchens and its scope has widened across recent editions, so confirm the adopted edition rather than assuming a device sits outside it; Section 210.12 brings arc-fault protection to kitchen outlets too. Behind all of them sits Section 110.3(B), which makes the manufacturer's installation instructions enforceable — the clause that turns a dishwasher's dedicated-circuit note into a requirement.

In the United Kingdom the reference is BS 7671, the IET Wiring Regulations, and the questions are the same ones in a different currency: how many final circuits serve the kitchen, whether the socket circuit is a ring or a radial, and what the hob may sit on once the diversity allowances published in the IET On-Site Guide are applied — the household-cooker allowance takes the first tranche of load in full and a proportion of the balance, plus an addition where a socket-outlet is built into the control unit. Two things trip people. An induction hob and a boiling-water tap on one circuit will find their own limit at breakfast time. And in England a new circuit in a dwelling is notifiable under Approved Document P, where the kitchen stopped being a special location in the 2013 revision — so replacing a socket is not notifiable and running the hob supply is. Wales did not follow that change and still counts a kitchen among the notifiable locations, and Scotland and Northern Ireland work to building regulations of their own, so check which document your address sits under before deciding the work is exempt.

The constraint that arrives late is the board. Spare ways, the protection already fitted, the condition of the main earthing conductor and the bonding to the incoming water and gas services are things an electrician establishes in twenty minutes and that nobody establishes until the job is priced. A full consumer unit or undersized bonding means the kitchen has just bought a board change and a day's work no showroom quote has ever contained. Have that looked at before you sign the order, not before first fix.

Lighting is the quiet load. Individual LED fittings are small, but a kitchen scheme adds them in quantity — downlights, under-cabinet strips, plinth lights, island pendants, a light rail in the cornice — and hangs them off whatever circuit already serves that floor. Count them against the breaker actually protecting them, using driver input wattage rather than the lamp's stated equivalent, which is a marketing number and not a load.

Count every fitting the new scheme adds and enter the driver input wattage, not the incandescent equivalent printed on the box. Run it against the breaker already protecting the lighting on that floor, and read the answer against the eighty per cent continuous-load limit rather than against the breaker's face value.

The total number of light fixtures on this circuit.

The rated wattage of each fixture (or lamp/driver combination).

The nominal voltage supplying the circuit.

The rating of the protective device on this circuit.

Total connected lighting load

720 W

ComparisonA comparison, not a check — no result here is an approval.

The circuit's current draw is 6.0 A, at or below 16.0 A — 80% of the breaker rating, which NEC 210.19 and 210.20 set for a continuously-loaded circuit. Under BS 7671 the design check is instead Ib ≤ In ≤ Iz — load under device, device under cable capacity — with no 80% derate for lighting, so this comparison is on the cautious side of the British rule rather than a statement of it. Being inside the rating on this one check settles nothing about the rest of the circuit — the conductors, the overcurrent device, and the work as installed are all outside it.

Circuit current draw
6 A
Maximum continuous load (80% of breaker)
16 A

Add the equipment this sizes

This result is a specification — 720 W — not a quantity. Put the thing it sizes into your project: how many, what you call it, and your supplier’s price.

What this calculation does not cover

  • Watts divided by volts is the current only at unity power factor, and lighting is not at unity. LED drivers and ballasts pull current out of phase with the voltage, so the real figure is watts divided by volts times power factor — at 0.9 that is 11% more current than shown here, and uncorrected budget drivers sit nearer 0.5, which roughly doubles it. The breaker responds to current, not to watts.
  • Steady-state load says nothing about the moment of switch-on. Electronic drivers charge their input capacitors in the first milliseconds at many times running current, and enough drivers on one circuit will trip a B-curve MCB or a thermal-magnetic breaker every time the lights are turned on, on a circuit that clears this check with room to spare. That is a driver-count and breaker-curve question, and it is decided nowhere on this page.

The waste run is the line that stops a layout

Sockets go anywhere the wall goes. Waste does not, because it runs on gravity. The moment a design moves the sink to the window — which is what almost every kitchen design does — someone has to answer whether the branch reaches the stack at a fall the code allows, inside the depth available under the floor.

The numbers are tabulated, not invented. The International Plumbing Code sets minimum slopes for horizontal drainage piping by size in Table 704.1, the Uniform Plumbing Code gives the equivalent, and the familiar quarter-inch-per-foot figure belongs to the smaller sizes a kitchen branch uses. In England and Wales, Approved Document H tabulates maximum branch length and gradient band by pipe size and fixture, with BS EN 12056-2 behind it; a sink branch beyond that length needs resizing or ventilating rather than optimism. Both regimes protect the same thing at both ends of the range: too shallow and the branch does not clear itself, too steep and the water outruns the solids and the trap seal siphons away — which is how a kitchen that was fine in February starts smelling in July.

Two variants cost meaningfully more than the drawing implies. An island sink takes its waste under the floor, so a suspended timber floor means lifting boards and notching or drilling joists within the limits the structural guidance allows, and a ground-bearing slab means cutting a channel in concrete — a different trade, a different day, and a real question about whether the layout is worth it. The second is the appliance connection: dishwashers and washing machines want their discharge arranged as their own installation instructions specify, and a shared trap taking two appliances and a sink is the arrangement that comes back as a blockage.

The macerator or pumped waste is a legitimate answer in a flat where the stack is on the far wall, and a last resort everywhere else. It converts a passive assembly with a fifty-year life into an appliance with a service interval, a failure mode, a noise and a list of things that must never go down that sink — in the one room where somebody is always washing something.

Measure the horizontal distance from where the new sink is drawn to where the existing branch leaves the room, and see what drop that run has to have. Then go and measure what depth you actually have below the floor along that line. If the second number is smaller than the first, the layout has a decision to make and it is better made now.

The horizontal length of the drain pipe run.

Larger drain pipes are allowed a gentler minimum slope.

Minimum required drop

4.875 in of drop (minimum)

High confidence

This is the code minimum slope — always check your specific local plumbing code, which may set stricter requirements in some jurisdictions.

Pipe run length
19.5 linear ft

Add the equipment this sizes

This result is a specification — 4.875 in of drop (minimum) — not a quantity. Put the thing it sizes into your project: how many, what you call it, and your supplier’s price.

19.5 ft
Schematic, drawn to the proportions you entered — not to scale on screen.

What this calculation does not cover

  • The size question is answered with two bands, so a 4 in branch and a 300 mm building sewer both land in the same band and get 1/8 in per ft. Real code tables are not that coarse: several add a gentler band for the largest sizes, and some jurisdictions require 1/4 in per ft at every size unless the reduction is specifically approved, so both the band boundary and the permitted figure are jurisdictional.
  • Nothing here checks the drop you actually have against a maximum, and nothing checks that the fall will physically fit: a 20 m run of large pipe needs about 208 mm of drop at this slope, and that depth has to be available between the fixture connection and the invert of the sewer or septic tank at the far end.
  • Slope is not capacity. Pipe size is set by the drainage fixture unit load on the run and the maximum permitted flow depth, and this page never asks how many fixtures discharge into it — the size band is something you tell the calculator, not something it works out for you.
  • The length is treated as one straight horizontal run. No allowance is made for bends, offsets or developed length through fittings, and the page does not size or locate the vents, traps and cleanouts the drain also needs; a run at exactly the right slope will still siphon its traps if the venting is wrong.
  • The figure is a total end-to-end drop and assumes the fall is delivered evenly along the run. It says nothing about hanger spacing or pipe bedding, and a single sag deep enough to hold standing water will collect solids even though the two ends of the pipe are the compliant distance apart.

The floor is bought twice, and the second time is the expensive one

Lift a kitchen out and you find the archaeology. Under the units, whatever was there when they were fitted, often the original surface with nothing done to it. In front of them, a finish laid up to the plinth line and stopping — sometimes three of those in sequence, each over the last, so the level rises twenty millimetres a generation and the back door has been trimmed twice. That is why a fitter's quote carries a line saying make good the floor with no quantity beside it: nobody could have quantified it.

Flatness is the specification that turns that line into a number, and it is written down. BS 8204 defines surface regularity classes measured under a two-metre straightedge — three, five and ten millimetres of deviation for classes SR1, SR2 and SR3 — and the finish chosen dictates which one it needs. ANSI A108.02 tightens the tolerance sharply for tile with any edge of fifteen inches or more, which is most of what a contemporary kitchen specifies; BS 5385 covers the tiling itself and BS 8203 the resilient coverings. Take a straightedge across the bare floor in both directions and write down the worst gap. That one measurement decides whether floor preparation is a bag of compound or a day of work.

Then there is the discovery that stops the job rather than costing it. A kitchen floor laid before 2000 may include thermoplastic or vinyl tiles bedded in black bitumen adhesive, and both are recognised asbestos-containing materials. In Great Britain the duty sits under the Control of Asbestos Regulations 2012, with HSG264 covering surveys and the HSE Asbestos Essentials task sheets covering the work; in the United States the equivalents are 40 CFR Part 61 Subpart M and OSHA's 29 CFR 1926.1101. The instruction is short and worth more than any figure on this page: if you find tiles of that vintage, stop, do not sand, grind or dry-scrape them, and have the material identified before anyone lifts another one.

The last floor decision sets how expensive your next kitchen will be. Laid across the whole room before the cabinets arrive, the finish costs more material now and makes any future change trivial. Stopped at the plinth line, it saves the material under the carcasses and welds this layout in place, because the next kitchen inherits a hole exactly the shape of this one. There is a second consequence at appliance height: lay twenty millimetres of new floor in front of an integrated dishwasher set to the old level, and the machine no longer comes out for service without the floor being cut.

Take the worst deviation you measured under the straightedge, estimate the average depth across the room rather than the depth of the deepest hollow, and read off the volume. Compound is sold by the bag and mixed to a stated yield, so the volume tells you the bag count — and the bag count is what turns a vague make-good line into something you can check.

The total subfloor area to be leveled.

The average thickness of the self-leveling compound pour across the floor.

SLU volume needed

42.1 gal

Medium confidence

Actual SLU consumption depends on subfloor roughness/low spots — an uneven subfloor will consume more material than this average-depth estimate suggests. Order 10-15% extra for irregular subfloors.

Estimated cost — your price

This site holds no price list for this material — local prices vary too much to publish honestly. Enter your supplier's price and the result is costed with it.

self-levelling underlayment 0.25 inself-levelling underlayment 6.35 mmfloor slab

What this calculation does not cover

  • Litres do not buy anything. SLU is sold by the bag, and turning this volume into a bag count needs the product's own yield — the litres one bag makes at its specified water ratio — which runs roughly 12 to 16 litres (3.2 to 4.2 gal) from a 25 kg (55 lb) bag and varies enough between products to shift the bag count by 10% or more on the same floor. Take the yield off the data sheet rather than assuming a density.
  • The high spot sets the datum for the whole floor, and this takes an average instead. Every SLU has a minimum thickness it will flow and cure at, and you cannot pour thinner than that over the highest point — so nothing on the floor ends up thinner than that minimum and the low corner takes the minimum plus the whole deviation. There is also a maximum lift, above which the pour must be split or extended with aggregate, and adding aggregate changes the yield again.
  • Primer is a separate material with its own coverage rate, and skipping it is how a pour fails rather than how it saves money. A porous slab pulls water out of the compound and pinholes; a sealed or non-porous substrate gives it nothing to grip. Porous slabs often take two coats, and the primer rate per square metre has no relationship to the pour depth calculated above.

Choosing the finish by the year rather than the square metre

Two floors quoted per square metre are not comparable until you know how long each one lasts in a kitchen, which is a harsher environment than the showroom sample suggests: standing water at the dishwasher door, point loads from a full fridge-freezer on four small feet, grit tracked in from outside, and heat and sunlight in whatever the window gives. Divide installed cost by realistic service life and the ranking between a mid-price engineered board and a cheap laminate frequently inverts.

One caveat belongs on the expensive side of that comparison. A kitchen floor is usually replaced when the kitchen is replaced, not when the floor wears out, and if you are the sort of household that reworks a kitchen every fifteen years then a material that would last forty is being asked to deliver fifteen. That caps the useful life you should enter, and it is a legitimate reason to spend less on the floor and more on the circuits underneath everything.

What the annualised figure cannot see is worth listing before you let it decide. Whether the finish suits underfloor heating, and whether its thermal resistance is inside the emitter's limit. What it does to impact noise in the room below, which is why the flat downstairs cares about your kitchen. Comfort underfoot, in the one room where people stand for an hour at a time. The cost and mess of lifting the old covering, paid once per replacement and therefore favouring the longer-lived option again. And the fact that a floor you dislike gets replaced early whatever the arithmetic said.

Enter the two finishes you have actually shortlisted at their installed price per unit area, and set the lifespans to what you expect from a kitchen rather than to the warranty length — a twenty-five-year warranty is a document about defects, not a forecast of how the floor will look at the dishwasher door in year eight.

The material + install cost per square foot for the first option.

How many years Option A is expected to last before replacement.

The material + install cost per square foot for the second option.

How many years Option B is expected to last before replacement.

Lower annualized cost per sq ft

Needs your rates

This page does not assume a price. Enter yours and the answer appears here.

What this calculation does not cover

  • Each option is a single division — price over lifespan — so the two figures are never brought to a common date: no discount rate is applied, and the replacement floor is assumed to cost per square foot exactly what today's quote costs.
  • The comparison works entirely in cost per square foot and never asks for the room's area, which leaves one-off charges that do not scale with the floor — subfloor levelling, delivery, thresholds and transitions, a supplier's minimum order — outside both annualized numbers.
  • Price is taken as one blended material-plus-install figure, so a cheap board with costly fitting and a dearer board that goes down quickly are indistinguishable, and the labour share you pay again at every replacement is never isolated.
  • Lifespan is entered as a whole number of years and treated as a certainty, so two options whose realistic service lives overlap are still resolved into a clear winner, and a span shorter than one year or longer than a hundred cannot be entered at all.
  • The headline answer reports only the lower of the two annualized costs, and an exact tie is awarded to Option A by the comparison itself, so a gap of a fraction of a cent per square foot per year is presented in the same terms as a decisive one.
  • Both prices must already be in the same currency — the result is labelled only as currency per square foot per year and converts nothing — and the entry range of 0.1 to 100 per square foot rules out salvaged material priced at zero as well as anything above that cap.

The regulatory surface is small, and none of it is the doors

Almost nothing in a kitchen refit is notifiable, which is exactly why the few things that are get missed. Fitting cabinets is unregulated workmanship, and so is tiling. The list requiring competence, notification or sign-off is short enough to hold in your head: the electrical work, the gas work, the extract ventilation, the waste connection, and any structural opening — a wall going, or a window widening — which is a separate project under Approved Document A in England or the header span provisions of Section R602 of the International Residential Code, and does not belong in a kitchen budget at all.

Ventilation has published rates rather than opinions, and a hood chosen for its appearance frequently misses them. Approved Document F sets kitchen extract rates for dwellings, the intermittent rate differing according to whether the extract sits adjacent to the hob; ASHRAE Standard 62.2 sets the equivalent local exhaust requirement. Both are undone the same way — a hood specified at the right rate, then vented through a long flexible duct with four bends and a plastic grille, or recirculated back into the room it was meant to clear. Duct route and diameter belong in the layout conversation, because the route crosses a ceiling or wall that is about to be finished.

Gas is the item with no amateur version. In Great Britain, work on a gas fitting is restricted under the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998 to a Gas Safe registered engineer; in the United States the National Fuel Gas Code, NFPA 54 and ANSI Z223.1, governs the installation. A hob capped off for the strip-out and reconnected afterwards is two visits, and both belong in the services line. Where a new tap or a boiling-water unit is going in, the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999 govern what may be connected to the supply in England and Wales.

  1. Get the electrical installation certificate or minor works certificate, in the installer's name, for every circuit altered or added.
  2. Get the building control notification or competent-person scheme notice for any new circuit, and file it with the deeds rather than the receipts.
  3. Get the gas engineer's record for both the disconnection and the reconnection, with the registration number legible.
  4. Keep every appliance's installation instructions, not just the user manual, and the worktop's care sheet — those are the documents warranty claims are judged against.
  5. Photograph every wall and the whole floor immediately before boarding, tiling and flooring, with a tape in shot, so the next person knows where the cables and pipes run.

Five years from now

The doors will be the first thing you stop liking, and the cheapest thing to change: carcasses in good condition take new fronts, new handles and a new worktop, and the room reads as a new kitchen for a fraction of the price of one. That is the argument for holding the services line when the budget tightens. It is not frugality — it is buying the option to change your mind cheaply later, and the option only exists if the wiring, the waste and the floor were done properly the first time.

The failures that are not recoverable that way are all in the half nobody photographs. A hob circuit that nags at its protection. A sink waste that never quite clears. A hood that moves air around the room rather than out of it. A floor that stops at the plinth line so the next kitchen has to be the same shape as this one. Every one of those was cheaper to get right on the day than it will ever be again, and every one of them was invisible on the quote that had the rendered view of your window on the front page.

Measure these before you pay the deposit

Seven readings, all obtainable with a tape, a two-metre straightedge and an hour in the room you already own. None depends on anybody's price, and each one moves a number the showroom quote does not contain.

  • Base run and wall run, measured along the wall through the corners — The metres the quote was multiplied by. Take them yourself, and note which modules the schedule uses across each run — a run of drawer stacks and a run of cupboards are the same metres and different money.
  • Developed worktop area, including the island return, the upstands and any splashback in the same material — Worktop is priced on the surface it covers, not the length it follows. This is also the number the fabricator's cutout schedule attaches to.
  • Worst deviation under a two-metre straightedge, taken in both directions across the bare floor — Against the surface regularity classes in BS 8204 and, for large-format tile, the tolerance in ANSI A108.02. This is what a make-good line with no quantity beside it is standing in for.
  • Horizontal distance from the new sink position to where the existing waste leaves the room — With the depth available below the floor along that line. The fall the code requires over that distance is what decides whether the sink can go under the window.
  • Spare ways in the consumer unit or panel, and the size of the main earthing and bonding conductors — Twenty minutes of an electrician's time before you sign. A full board or undersized bonding is a day's work and a component that no cabinet quote has ever included.
  • Fitting count and driver wattage for the whole lighting scheme, plus the breaker already serving that floor — Downlights, under-cabinet strips, plinth lights, pendants and tall-unit interiors. Use the driver input, never the incandescent equivalent on the packaging.
  • Age of the existing floor covering, and what is bedded underneath it — Pre-2000 thermoplastic tiles and black bitumen adhesive are recognised asbestos-containing materials. Establish it before anyone lifts one, not after.
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Drawn from

  • National Electrical Code (NFPA 70), Section 210.11(C)(1) — Small-appliance branch circuits required in dwelling units
  • National Electrical Code (NFPA 70), Section 210.52(B) — Small-appliance receptacle outlets, and the loads permitted on those circuits
  • National Electrical Code (NFPA 70), Section 210.52(C) — Receptacle outlets serving countertop and work surfaces
  • National Electrical Code (NFPA 70), Section 210.8(A) — Ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel, dwelling units
  • National Electrical Code (NFPA 70), Section 210.12 — Arc-fault circuit-interrupter protection
  • National Electrical Code (NFPA 70), Section 110.3(B) — Installation and use of listed or labeled equipment
  • BS 7671, Requirements for Electrical Installations — IET Wiring Regulations, Eighteenth Edition
  • IET On-Site Guide — allowances for diversity, including the household cooking appliance allowance
  • The Building Regulations 2010, Approved Document P — Electrical safety, dwellings (England)
  • The Building Regulations 2010, Approved Document F — Ventilation, Volume 1: Dwellings (England)
  • The Building Regulations 2010, Approved Document H — Drainage and waste disposal (England)
  • The Building Regulations 2010, Approved Document A — Structure (England)
  • ANSI/ASHRAE Standard 62.2, Ventilation and Acceptable Indoor Air Quality in Residential Buildings — kitchen local exhaust
  • International Plumbing Code, Table 704.1 — Slope of horizontal drainage pipe
  • Uniform Plumbing Code — minimum slope requirements for horizontal drainage piping
  • BS EN 12056-2, Gravity drainage systems inside buildings — Part 2: Sanitary pipework, layout and calculation
  • International Residential Code, Section R602 — Wood wall framing, including header span provisions
  • BS 8204, Screeds, bases and in-situ floorings — surface regularity classes SR1, SR2 and SR3
  • ANSI A108.02 — General requirements for tile installation, including subfloor flatness tolerances for large-format tile
  • BS 5385, Wall and floor tiling — code of practice for the design and installation of ceramic and mosaic tiling
  • BS 8203, Code of practice for installation of resilient floor coverings
  • Control of Asbestos Regulations 2012 (Great Britain)
  • HSE HSG264, Asbestos: The survey guide, and the HSE Asbestos Essentials task sheets
  • 40 CFR Part 61 Subpart M — National Emission Standard for Hazardous Air Pollutants, asbestos
  • 29 CFR 1926.1101 — OSHA construction standard for asbestos
  • Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998 (Great Britain)
  • National Fuel Gas Code, NFPA 54 / ANSI Z223.1
  • Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999 (England and Wales)

Guidance, not a specification. Local codes, the engineer of record and the product manufacturer’s instructions govern where they differ from anything written here.