Roofing

Framing a Skylight Opening

One catalogue code decides the opening, the header, the curb and the saddle above it — worked in that order, from the unit outward.
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A page torn out of a brochure

The job usually arrives as a photograph on a phone: a catalogue page with one line highlighted and a note underneath saying the one over the landing. From that product code the rest of the week is already settled — which rafters get cut, how deep the header has to be, whether the upslope side needs a saddle, how much board the shaft below will take, and whether the roofer can flash the result once you have built it. Nobody in the showroom knew any of that, and none of it is negotiable afterwards.

Nothing else on a roof behaves this way. A miscut rafter gets re-cut, a bad course of shingles gets pulled. A skylight opening is a single hole through the structure, the weather plane and the insulation line simultaneously, and all three are dimensioned by a decision somebody else made from a picture. The only useful move is to find out precisely what the maker means by each printed dimension before a blade touches the ceiling.

Work outward from the unit and each step has exactly one input. The unit fixes the opening. The opening fixes the trimmers and headers. The framing fixes the curb. The curb fixes the saddle. The saddle decides whether the deck above the skylight sheds or holds a puddle of grit every autumn. Reverse any pair of those and the correction is destructive, because the piece you would need to move is already nailed under something else.

What a framed skylight is made of

A section taken up the slope through a finished skylight: the light well below, trimmed rafters closed by a header at each end, the deck cut back to them, the curb standing on the deck, the saddle wedged in on the upslope face, the flashing kit, and the unit sitting on top.
  1. Skylight unit — the catalogue item that dimensions everything beneath it; its glazing type is governed by the sloped glazing provisions, not by preference
  2. Flashing kit — apron at the foot, step pieces up both sides, head flashing over the saddle — bought by the perimeter of the curb it wraps Skylight Curb Perimeter Flashing Length Calculator
  3. Upslope saddle — a wedge that splits runoff and snow around the head of the curb instead of letting it pile against the back of it Roof Cricket (Saddle) Framing Calculator
  4. Curb — the timber kerb that lifts the unit clear of the roof plane, sized from the framed opening and squared before the flashing arrives Skylight Curb Timber Calculator
  5. Roof deck — cut back to the framing on all four sides, then dressed with a self-adhered collar before any timber goes on top of it
  6. Trimmed opening — doubled trimmer rafters each side, a header top and bottom, and the load of every cut rafter handed sideways into them Skylight Rough Opening Calculator
  7. Light well — the lined shaft between roof plane and ceiling opening, drawn flared on both faces and most steeply on the downslope one, and the first surface condensation shows on Skylight Light Well Surface Area Calculator

The rough opening is the manufacturer's number, not yours

A unit skylight arrives described by four or five dimensions that all sound like the size of the skylight. Outside frame, rough opening, installation clearance, daylight opening, and — on curb-mounted products — a curb size that is different again. Only one of them is a cutting dimension. Reading the wrong line off the sheet is the single most common way a skylight ends up with a 15 mm gap on one side and nothing on the other.

There are two conventions in circulation and they are not interchangeable. Some makers print the rough opening outright, in which case that figure is the whole answer and no arithmetic applies: cut to it, and any clearance the unit needs is already inside it. Others print the unit's outside frame dimension and a required installation clearance per side, and expect the installer to add the clearance twice in each direction. The arithmetic is trivial; knowing which of the two sheets you are holding is the part that matters, and if the sheet is ambiguous the answer is a phone call to the supplier, not a judgement call on a roof.

Take a unit measuring 780 mm by 1180 mm across the outside of the frame, with 13 mm of clearance called for on each side. The framed opening becomes 806 mm by 1206 mm, and both trimmers and both headers have to land on those lines with their faces, not their centrelines. It is worth writing the two numbers on the trimmer stock in marker before the cut, because at that point in the day you will be holding three dimensions in your head and only one of them is the one you saw to.

The clearance exists so the frame can be shimmed square, level and plumb without binding against timber that has moved since it was milled. It is not slop, and it is not an allowance to be padded. An opening cut generously so the unit will definitely fit leaves the fixing brackets reaching for framing that is no longer under them, and it leaves a gap too wide for the perimeter insulation and air seal to bridge honestly. Cut it tight to the number and shim it; that is the sequence the fixings were designed around.

The dimensions a unit skylight arrives with, and which one you saw to
Line on the sheetWhat it measuresWhat it is actually for
Outside frame sizeThe overall width and height of the finished unit including its claddingComparing products in a showroom; not a cutting dimension
Rough openingThe framed hole, measured face to face of the trimmers and headersThe only figure you cut to
Installation clearanceThe gap the maker requires between frame and framing, stated per sideShimming the unit true without trapping it
Daylight or clear openingThe unobstructed glazed area, always the smallest number on the pageDaylighting expectations and glare planning
Curb size, curb-mounted unitsThe outside of the timber kerb the unit lands onSets the flashing perimeter and the width the saddle must span
The dimensions a unit skylight arrives with, and which one you saw to

Where the sheet gives a frame size and a per-side clearance rather than a finished opening, run the two figures through before marking the trimmers — the model adds the clearance twice in each direction, which is the step people do in their head and get wrong on the height.

The manufactured width of the skylight unit itself.

The manufactured height of the skylight unit itself.

The manufacturer's required installation clearance on each side of the unit.

The centre-to-centre spacing of the rafters the opening is being cut through.

The thickness of one rafter, measured across the face the opening runs past.

Rough opening width

2.083 ft

High confidence
Rough opening height
3.08 ft
Clear gap between two rafters
1.87 ft
Widest unit that misses the rafters
1.79 ft
Rafters interrupted, at fewest
1
Rafters interrupted, at most
2
2 ft2 ft2 at 2 ft
Schematic, drawn to the proportions you entered — not to scale on screen.

What this calculation does not cover

  • The single clearance figure is added twice to each dimension, so the same gap is assumed at both jambs and at the head and sill alike; a unit whose instructions ask for more room at the head than down the sides needs two passes and the two answers read off separately.
  • The rafter count says how many members the opening interrupts, not what to do about them. Every cut rafter wants a header across the opening at the head and the foot, the rafters each side of it doubled to carry those headers, and the whole of that sized by somebody for the load it now takes, because a trimmed opening is a short beam and nothing on this page sizes one.
  • Where the opening lands across the roof is not asked, which is why the rafter count comes back as a range rather than a figure. The same opening slid half a bay either way can catch one more rafter or one fewer, and on a roof where the setting out has already been disturbed by a valley or a chimney the bays are not equal anyway. Mark the rafters before ordering the unit, not after.
  • No pitch term enters either sum. Both dimensions are taken as lying in the plane of the roof, so an up-slope measurement lifted off a plan-view drawing will set the opening out short.
  • The input ranges cap the clearance between 6 mm and 25 mm, roughly a quarter-inch to an inch per side, and the unit itself at 2 m wide by 2.5 m high, which puts oversized rooflights and any unusually generous shimming gap outside what can be entered.
  • The answer comes back as the exact sum rather than a dimension anyone would mark on a rafter, and the direction of any rounding is left to you — a surplus millimetre can be shimmed out, whereas an opening rounded down has to be cut again.

Which rafters you may cut, and what carries them afterwards

Once the opening is dimensioned, the structural question is whether it fits inside a single rafter bay. If it does, the work is trimming: a header at each end of the opening spanning between the two adjacent rafters, and nothing structural has been interrupted. That is the version of this job that a carpenter completes in a morning, and it is why a client who is flexible about the unit size should be steered toward one that fits the bay they already have.

Cut one rafter and the arithmetic changes character. The severed member's share of the roof load has to travel sideways through the headers into the rafters either side, which is why those rafters get doubled and why the headers get doubled with them. Two cut rafters, or one cut rafter under a heavy snow or tile load, is the point at which prescriptive framing stops being a safe default. The framing-of-openings provisions in Chapter 8 of the International Residential Code cover the general case for openings in roof and ceiling framing, and the timber design behind them sits in the AWC National Design Specification for Wood Construction — but neither is a substitute for a designer once the opening spans more than a bay or two.

Trusses are a hard stop. A trussed roof is an engineered assembly in which no member is spare, and a skylight that requires cutting a chord or a web is not a carpentry decision at any width. The route is a modification detail from the truss designer, usually involving a header hung off the adjacent trusses, and it arrives with its own connector schedule. Anyone who tells you a small one will be fine is describing a roof that has not failed yet.

Engineered rafters have the same character even when nothing is being cut. I-joists and structural composite lumber carry their capacity in a way that does not tolerate site notching, and the permitted holes, cuts and hanger types come from the manufacturer's own installation literature rather than from any general timber rule. Hanging a skylight header off an I-joist rafter without the specified hanger is a detail that looks finished and is not.

Two smaller things get forgotten in the same breath. The headers sit in the insulation line as well as the load path, so a doubled header in a 45 mm gap eats depth that the insulation strategy was counting on. And the trimmers now carry the curb, the flashing and, in snow country, a drift that the rest of the roof does not see — the drift surcharge on the upslope side of anything projecting through a roof plane is a structural question that belongs to ASCE 7 Minimum Design Loads and Associated Criteria for Buildings and Other Structures, not to experience.

Getting the opening from the ceiling onto the roof

The opening is nearly always laid out from inside, because that is where the constraints live — the rafters you are trying not to cut, the ceiling joists, the position over a landing or a worktop that the client actually cares about. Then it has to arrive on the roof, in the right place, at the right angle, through a deck you cannot see through.

The nail transfer is old and still the best method available. It survives a felt roof, a tiled roof and a foot of insulation, and it fails only if you forget which of the four nails you drove first. Snap the lines on the roof between the four heads, then measure both diagonals before believing the rectangle — a transfer that is square inside and out of square on top means one of the nails came up through a rafter and got pushed sideways.

From the moment the first cut goes into the deck, the opening is a hole and the fall protection rules treat it as one. OSHA 29 CFR 1926 Subpart M requires holes to be guarded or covered, and any cover has to be capable of carrying a multiple of the load that could cross it and be secured and marked — the specific factor is in the standard and it is larger than a sheet of thin ply casually laid over the gap. The version of this that hurts people is the temporary cover left unfixed while everyone goes for lunch on a bright day.

  1. Mark the opening on the ceiling from inside, clear of the rafters and joists you have decided not to cut.
  2. Drive a nail up through the roof at each of the four corners and leave the heads standing proud of the covering.
  3. On the roof, snap lines between the four heads, then measure both diagonals and correct the rectangle before cutting anything.
  4. Strip the covering back well past the lines so the flashing and the self-adhered collar have clean deck to land on later.
  5. Set blade depth to the deck thickness only, so a stray cut cannot take the top edge of a rafter you intend to keep.
  6. Cover and secure the opening before leaving it, every time, including the ten minutes it will obviously be fine for.

Curb or no curb

Deck-mounted units sit down onto the sheathing and carry their own upstand inside the frame, so the framed opening is the finished thing and the flashing kit lands straight on the deck. Curb-mounted units want a site-built timber kerb standing on the deck, and the unit lands on that. Which one you have was decided in the showroom along with everything else, and the two are not swappable at the point of installation — the flashing kits are different parts.

Where a curb is built, its height above the finished roof surface is the number to get right, and the maker states a minimum. Building it to that minimum on a roof that gets driven rain, or on one where snow lies, is a decision to be at the bottom of the tested range for the life of the roof; the extra material to build it taller costs almost nothing and buys the flashing a longer upstand. Build it square, build it with the deck cut back to the framing beneath so nothing is cantilevered, and check the diagonals again before it is fixed, because the unit will not correct a curb that is out of true.

The perimeter of that curb is the flashing takeoff. Apron at the foot, step or soaker pieces up each side interleaved with the covering course by course, and a head flashing at the top lapped by the covering above it — the same downhill logic as everything else on a steep roof, applied to a rectangle standing in the middle of it. Under all of it, a self-adhered membrane meeting ASTM D1970 Standard Specification for Self-Adhering Polymer Modified Bituminous Sheet Materials Used as Steep Roofing Underlayment for Ice Dam Protection, run up the curb faces and lapped shingle-fashion onto the deck, is what keeps a flashing detail from becoming a leak the first time a fixing works loose.

The curb perimeter is what the flashing is bought by, and it is not the rough opening — it is the outside of the kerb, which is larger. Take it off the curb you are about to build so the sides, the apron and the head all come off one order.

The length of the skylight curb.

The width of the skylight curb.

Flashing length needed

14 ft

High confidence

Add a waste allowance for corner cuts and laps per the flashing manufacturer's installation instructions — this calculator gives the raw perimeter length only.

Estimated cost — your price

This site holds no price list for this material — local prices vary too much to publish honestly. Enter your supplier's price and the result is costed with it.

4 ft3 ft
Schematic, drawn to the proportions you entered — not to scale on screen.

What this calculation does not cover

  • One number for four different pieces. Curb flashing is an apron at the downslope side, a side pan or step flashing up each slope, and a head piece with a counter over it upslope, and they are not interchangeable lengths — on a shingle roof the side dimension converts into a COUNT of step pieces keyed to the shingle exposure rather than a run of material.
  • Gives no girth, and girth is what makes the joint watertight. How far the metal turns up the curb face and how far it laps out over the roof covering sets the coil width or the profile of the pre-formed piece; a perimeter says nothing about either, and the right length of the wrong-width stock is the usual way this order goes wrong.
  • A curb much wider than 600 mm (2 ft) across the slope generally needs a cricket or saddle behind it, and that is separate metal with its own framing. Without one, water and debris bank against the flat back of the curb and stay there — the flashing is not failing, it is being asked to hold a pond.

The saddle that keeps water off the upslope side

Everything the roof collects above the skylight arrives at the head of the curb and stops. On a narrow unit it parts and runs around, and the head flashing handles it. On a wide one it does not part cleanly: the flow spreads across the upstand, slows, drops its grit, and in the first winter the resulting shelf holds leaves, then ice, then a standing pond above a joint that was designed to shed. A saddle — a cricket — is a small wedge of framing that gives that water a shape to leave by.

There is a code floor under the decision and a manufacturer's figure above it, and they are not the same thing. The floor is the familiar 30 in (762 mm) threshold: the roof flashing provisions in Chapter 9 of the International Residential Code call for a cricket or saddle on the ridge side of any chimney or penetration more than that wide, measured perpendicular to the slope. The wording is worth reading carefully, because the clause is usually quoted as a chimney rule and it is not — a curbed skylight is a penetration, so a wide one is caught by it directly rather than by analogy. Above that floor sits the maker's own trigger, which varies with product and with pitch because a shallow roof spreads the flow and a steep one throws it, and which can call for a saddle sooner. Where it does, it is the tested condition and it is the one to build to.

The geometry of a symmetric saddle is one line of arithmetic and one comparison. Its ridge runs up the slope from the centre of the curb head; its two faces fall from that ridge to the deck at the curb's outside corners. If those faces are built at the main roof pitch, the ridge height is half the width facing upslope multiplied by the pitch ratio. Run it, then hold the answer against the height of your curb above the deck.

That comparison is the whole decision, and it catches people out. An 850 mm curb on a 6:12 roof wants a ridge 213 mm high, while the curb itself may stand only 150 mm above the deck — the saddle would tower over the head flashing it is supposed to sit under. The resolutions are to build the saddle faces shallower than the main roof, to build the curb taller, or to accept the maker's own head deflector if the unit is inside the width it covers. Shallower faces have their own floor: they must still exceed the minimum slope the roof covering is permitted at, which for asphalt shingles and for slates and tiles is set by Chapter 9 of the code and by the covering manufacturer, and below that the saddle stops being a shingled surface and becomes a metal or membrane one.

Build it as framing, not as packing. A ridge board or a beveled ridge, two sets of short jack members falling to the deck, and sheathing over them, all bearing on the deck and the trimmers rather than floating on top of the covering. Line the two valleys that the saddle's faces make with the main roof before anything else goes on: those are the most concentrated few inches of water on the whole slope, and they are exactly where a saddle that was tapered out of insulation board or offcuts starts to fail.

Take the width facing upslope from the outside of the curb, not from the glass, then compare the ridge height it returns against your curb height above the deck — if the ridge comes out taller, the saddle cannot be built at main-roof pitch and something else has to give.

The width of the chimney or obstruction as measured facing up the roof slope.

The pitch of the main roof the cricket ties into.

Cricket ridge height

1 ft

High confidence
26.6°1266/12
Schematic, drawn to the proportions you entered — not to scale on screen.

What this calculation does not cover

  • Does not tell you whether a cricket is required. Codes generally call for a cricket or saddle behind any chimney more than about 760 mm (30 in) wide measured across the slope, and the trigger is that width — not the chimney's height above the roof, and not the roofing material. Below it, back flashing alone is normally the detail.
  • Water leaves down the valleys, and a valley always falls at a shallower angle than the two planes that form it. On a low-slope main roof, a cricket built at the main pitch produces valleys whose fall can drop below the minimum slope the covering is listed for, which is how a correctly framed cricket ends up holding a puddle and a line of debris along each side.

The shaft under the hole

Below the roof plane the opening becomes a light well, and it is the part of the job the client sees every day. Straight-sided wells are quick and give a narrow, hard shaft of light. Splayed wells — flared at the ceiling, often more on the downslope face — spread the light and are the reason one skylight can feel like two. The splay is decided at framing, not at boarding, because the shaft studs have to lean.

Whatever its shape, the shaft is an exterior surface on both of its faces. It gets the same insulation continuity as the roof around it, an air seal at the ceiling plane, and vapour control on the warm side, all of which are easier to build before the boards go on and effectively impossible afterwards. Skimping here is not a thermal problem so much as a moisture one: the glazing is the coldest surface in the room, moist air runs up the shaft to meet it, and the resulting drip gets reported as a leaking skylight in a dry week. BS 5250 Management of Moisture in Buildings, and the psychrometric material in the ASHRAE Handbook — Fundamentals, are the documents behind that behaviour; the fenestration U-factor and SHGC requirements in the International Energy Conservation Code, as adopted, are what the unit itself has to meet.

There is a finishing consequence too. Well faces are seen in raking light from the glazing above, which is the least forgiving light a plasterer ever works under, and every fastener line and joint shows. Board them with that in mind, and paint them white or near-white unless the client has a specific reason not to — the shaft is a reflector, and the difference between a white well and a mid-tone one is visible in the room below.

The straight shaft case is the quick one: four faces around the opening, taken at the well height, giving the board and finish area in a single figure. A splayed well is larger than this on every face, so take the splayed dimensions rather than the opening if you have flared it.

The interior width of the light well shaft.

The interior length of the light well shaft, perpendicular to the width.

The vertical distance from the roof opening down to the ceiling opening.

Light well wall surface area

117 ft²

High confidence

This assumes a straight (non-splayed/non-tapered) light well — a splayed well (wider at the ceiling than the roof, common for maximizing daylight spread) needs a per-wall trapezoidal area calculation instead of this simplified straight-shaft method.

Estimated cost — your price

This site holds no price list for this material — local prices vary too much to publish honestly. Enter your supplier's price and the result is costed with it.

5 ft4 ft
Schematic, drawn to the proportions you entered — not to scale on screen.

What this calculation does not cover

  • Measures the finish, not the daylight. How much light reaches the room is governed by the well index, the shaft's depth set against its width: a 2 m (6.5 ft) shaft over a 600 mm (24 in) opening delivers a fraction of what the same skylight gives through a 200 mm (8 in) ceiling. No amount of reflectance rescues a shaft that is too deep and too narrow — widening the ceiling opening or splaying the walls is what does.
  • Counts one side of each wall. The shaft passes through the roof void, so those walls are part of the thermal envelope and need insulation on their outer face plus a continuous air seal where they meet the ceiling plane — the same dimensions, a different material, and none of it in this area. The well that skips it is the one that grows a black line of mold around the ceiling opening every winter.

Water first, plaster afterwards

The flashing, the saddle and the collar all become inaccessible the moment the shaft is boarded, so the test belongs before that, with a hose and somebody standing underneath in the dark. Work upward and one detail at a time — apron first, then each side in turn, then the head and the saddle — with several minutes on each. Wetting the whole thing at once tells you only that it leaks, which you already suspect; wetting it in sequence tells you which detail, which is the only information worth having. The formal versions of this are ASTM E1105 Standard Test Method for Field Determination of Water Penetration of Installed Exterior Windows, Skylights, Doors, and Curtain Walls, by Uniform or Cyclic Static Air Pressure Difference, and AAMA 502 Voluntary Specification for Field Testing of Newly Installed Fenestration Products, and on a job where the skylight is a specified performance item those are what will be asked for.

Photograph the flashing run, the saddle valleys and the membrane collar before the covering closes over them. Two years on, when a stain appears on the shaft in February, that set of photographs is the difference between a targeted repair and stripping a square metre of roof to find out what somebody did. Record the product code and the glazing type at the same time: the sloped glazing provisions of the International Residential Code at Section R308.6, and the safety glazing material standards behind them — ANSI Z97.1 and 16 CFR Part 1201 — apply to the unit as supplied, and a replacement pane ordered later from a general glazier is where that gets quietly lost.

Last, resist the caulk. A bead of sealant across a flashing lap is the standard field improvisation for a detail that was assembled slightly wrong, and it works for about as long as it takes the sealant to lose adhesion on one side. Sealant on a skylight belongs where the maker's instructions put it and nowhere else. If the water is getting in somewhere a lap should have stopped it, the lap is the repair.

What to have settled before the first cut

Worked in the order the opening is built, from the catalogue dimension outward, so the structural question and the saddle question are both answered while they are still cheap to answer.

  • Framed opening, from the unit's own sheet — Either the printed rough opening used verbatim, or the outside frame size with the stated clearance added on both sides in each direction — never a padded figure.
  • Rafters cut, and what replaces them — Inside one bay it is trimming; cut a rafter and the trimmers and headers double; a truss is a designer's detail and never a site decision.
  • Curb outside dimensions and height above the deck — Larger than the opening, and the height is what the flashing upstand and the saddle both key off — build above the stated minimum, not at it.
  • Saddle ridge height against curb height — A same-pitch saddle on a wide curb often wants a ridge taller than the curb; check before framing, not after the flashing arrives.
  • Flashing perimeter and membrane collar — Taken off the curb, not the opening, with self-adhered membrane under the whole detail and lapped downhill onto the deck.
  • Light well faces, insulation and air seal — Straight or splayed decided at framing; the shaft is an exterior surface on both faces and the first place condensation is reported as a leak.
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Opens the calculators above on one screen with the dimensions from this article already filled in. Quantities only — this site publishes no price list, because local prices vary too much to publish honestly.

Drawn from

  • International Residential Code, Chapter 8 Roof-Ceiling Construction — framing of openings (as adopted and amended locally)
  • International Residential Code, Chapter 9 Roof Assemblies — flashing, crickets and saddles, and minimum slope by covering
  • International Residential Code, Section R308.6 Skylights and Sloped Glazing
  • AAMA/WDMA/CSA 101/I.S.2/A440 North American Fenestration Standard/Specification for Windows, Doors, and Skylights
  • ASTM D1970 Standard Specification for Self-Adhering Polymer Modified Bituminous Sheet Materials Used as Steep Roofing Underlayment for Ice Dam Protection
  • ASTM E1105 Standard Test Method for Field Determination of Water Penetration of Installed Exterior Windows, Skylights, Doors, and Curtain Walls, by Uniform or Cyclic Static Air Pressure Difference
  • AAMA 502 Voluntary Specification for Field Testing of Newly Installed Fenestration Products
  • ANSI Z97.1 Safety Glazing Materials Used in Buildings — Safety Performance Specifications and Methods of Test
  • 16 CFR Part 1201 Safety Standard for Architectural Glazing Materials
  • AWC National Design Specification (NDS) for Wood Construction
  • ASCE 7 Minimum Design Loads and Associated Criteria for Buildings and Other Structures
  • NRCA Roofing Manual: Steep-slope Roof Systems
  • International Energy Conservation Code — fenestration U-factor and SHGC provisions (as adopted)
  • BS 5250 Management of Moisture in Buildings — Code of Practice
  • ASHRAE Handbook — Fundamentals
  • OSHA 29 CFR 1926 Subpart M Fall Protection

Guidance, not a specification. Local codes, the engineer of record and the product manufacturer’s instructions govern where they differ from anything written here.