HVAC

Ducting a Bathroom Extractor Fan So It Does Not Drip

Water at the grille is a duct fault, not a fan fault: the fall, the bore, the lagging and the gap under the door each decide it.
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It worked in October and dripped in November

The call almost never comes in the week the fan goes in. It comes on the first hard morning of the year, when somebody showers at seven and finds a bead of water hanging off the corner of the grille, then a stain spreading across the plasterboard behind it. By the time anyone is standing on a stepladder the fan is running, sounding healthy, and moving air. Nothing about it looks broken, and the householder has already decided the fan is faulty because the fan is the only part they can see.

It is worth separating the two complaints that arrive together, because they have different causes and different fixes. Water at the grille is a drainage problem: liquid has been made somewhere in the run and has come back down it. A mirror that stays fogged for twenty minutes is a flow problem: the air is not leaving fast enough, or is not leaving at all. A fan can do one of these, both, or neither, and one of the fastest ways to waste a morning is to treat a wet ceiling as though it were a weak fan.

There are only five candidates on a domestic extract run and each of them leaves its own mark. The fan itself, which may be moving a fraction of its carton figure. The duct route, which may have consumed the fan's entire capability in two bends and a coil of concertina. The insulation, whose absence turns a duct crossing a cold roof space into a condenser. The terminal at the far end, which can let weather in going one way and refuse to open going the other. And the make-up air path, because a sealed bathroom with a tight door lets a fan run all day against a room that has nothing to give it. Work through them in that order and the diagnosis usually falls out before the second cup of tea.

Reading the mark it leaves

Each failure writes a different signature, and most of them are legible from the doorway before an instrument comes out of the bag. Water only after a shower, and only in cold weather, points at condensate made inside the duct. Water on a windy day with no shower in the house points at the terminal. A ceiling that is damp over an area rather than dripping at a point is water condensing on the outside of a cold duct and soaking into the plasterboard, which is a lagging fault, not a drainage one.

The measurements below are the ones that settle each argument fastest. None of them needs a flow hood; a vane anemometer, a manometer with a length of tube and a torch will resolve almost every domestic extract complaint that ever gets phoned in.

Extract fan complaints and the check that resolves each one
What is reportedMost likely causeFirst check
Drips from the grille after a shower, cold weather onlyCondensate made in the bore, running back to the fanFall direction along the run, and whether it is lagged
Ceiling damp in a patch around the fan housingRoom moisture condensing on a cold uninsulated ductContinuity of the vapour jacket and its seal at the housing
Water after wind and rain, with the fan idleTerminal admitting weather, or a failed back-draught flapThe outside cowl, its flap, and the fall at the last metre
Mirror still fogged twenty minutes after the showerDelivered flow far below the fan's ratingMeasured flow at the grille against the design duty
Fan noticeably louder than the showroom demonstrationDuct resistance pushing the fan up its curveBend count, duct bore and flex condition
Fan runs, almost no air at the grille, door closedNo make-up air path into the roomFlow measured with the door open, then shut
Drips only for the first minute of every runA standing reservoir in a sagged length being blown clearSag between supports along the whole run
Extract fan complaints and the check that resolves each one

What the fan is being asked to move

Before anything is judged, the run needs a target, and there are two legitimate ways to arrive at one. The first is the code minimum for the room, which is a fixed rate rather than a calculation: ANSI/ASHRAE Standard 62.2, Ventilation and Acceptable Indoor Air Quality in Residential Buildings, sets local exhaust rates for bathrooms with separate figures for intermittent and continuous operation, and Approved Document F, Ventilation, does the same job in England in litres per second. Both distinguish a fan that runs on a switch from one that runs permanently, and the continuous figure is always the smaller of the pair. Which document applies, and which edition of it, is a question about the adopting jurisdiction rather than about the bathroom.

The second route is the room's own volume against an air change rate, and it is the one worth running when the room is unusual: a large wet room with a steam shower, a bathroom with a three-metre ceiling, an internal shower room with no window at all. A prescriptive rate written for a typical bathroom quietly assumes a typical volume, and a room at twice that volume clears at half the pace on the same fan.

Take the larger of the two answers, not the more convenient one. A fan selected on the code minimum in a room that needs the volumetric figure will satisfy an inspector and still leave a fogged mirror, and the householder is judging it on the mirror.

Put the actual room dimensions against the air change rate for a bathroom, then hold the answer alongside whatever the adopted code names as its minimum and select on the larger of the two.

Different rooms have different recommended ventilation rates.

The length of the room.

The width of the room.

Floor-to-ceiling height.

Recommended airflow (CFM)

85.3 CFM

Medium confidence

Based on general air-changes-per-hour targets, not a code-mandated minimum for your specific jurisdiction — check local building code for required bathroom/kitchen exhaust minimums.

Room volume
640 cu ft
Target air changes/hour
8 ACH

Add the equipment this sizes

This result is a specification — 85.3 CFM — not a quantity. Put the thing it sizes into your project: how many, what you call it, and your supplier’s price.

10 ft8 ft
Schematic, drawn to the proportions you entered — not to scale on screen.

What this calculation does not cover

  • This sizes the airflow the room needs, not the fan you buy. Manufacturer CFM ratings are measured against a static pressure far lower than a real installation imposes, and duct length, elbows, flexible duct, the interior grille and the exterior cap all cut delivered flow. None of that is modelled here.
  • This is not a code compliance check. Codes commonly set a flat minimum exhaust rate for bathrooms and kitchens, plus separate whole-dwelling ventilation rates driven by floor area and occupancy, and a small bathroom or WC will compute below those minimums. Size on whichever figure is larger and confirm it against the code your work is inspected under.
  • Makeup air is not accounted for. Air pulled out has to be replaced, so a fan sized from this figure with no door undercut, transfer grille or trickle vent will move less than the number says, and in a sealed room it can depressurise the space enough to backdraft an open-flued gas or solid-fuel appliance. Combustion safety is a separate check, not something this result covers.
  • The air change rate is one fixed value per room type, and only four room types exist. It does not move for the number of occupants, shower versus bath use, gas versus electric cooking, cooktop or hood width, an openable window already in the room, local humidity, or whether the fan runs continuously or on a timer.
  • Room volume is length x width x height and nothing else. A sloped or vaulted ceiling, an L-shaped room, a dropped bulkhead, or a space open to an adjoining one such as an ensuite off a bedroom or a kitchen open to the dining area has no honest set of three numbers to enter, and the volume has to be worked out separately.

The data sheet is quoting a different fan

Fan literature is written in whichever units the factory ships in, and a domestic extract job routinely has three sets in play at once: a duty in litres per second from a metric specification, a carton figure in cubic feet per minute, and a performance curve with static pressure on the vertical axis in either pascals or inches of water column. Nothing about a bathroom is complicated enough to justify getting this wrong, and it goes wrong constantly, because the two airflow units are close enough in magnitude to look interchangeable on a schedule and are not.

The number to distrust is the big one on the front of the box. That is the free-air figure, measured with nothing attached, and no installed fan ever sees it. The Home Ventilating Institute's Certified Products Directory lists rated airflow at more than one static pressure precisely because of this, and the higher-static figure is the one a real run will approach. Some codes and utility programmes name which of those ratings a selection has to be made against; confirm which, because selecting on the free-air number and installing against four metres of duct is how a compliant fan produces a non-compliant flow.

Sound belongs in the same conversation and is rated in sones on the same certificate. A fan chosen at the top of its curve is a fan chosen at the top of its noise rating, and a bathroom fan that wakes the room next door gets switched off at the isolator within a fortnight. Standard 62.2 caps rated sound, with the tighter cap on continuously running units, for exactly this reason.

Convert once, write the converted figure on the drawing, and select against that. Two people converting the same duty independently at two stages of a job is how a 15 litre per second bathroom ends up with a fan chosen for 15 cubic feet per minute.

Cross a metric extract duty into the units a North American fan curve is drawn in, so that the duty and the curve are being read on the same axis before a model is chosen.

The airflow duty in litres per second, from the metric schedule.

Airflow

529.7 CFM

High confidence

Converted using an exact defined factor of 2.118880003289315 CFM per L/s. Exact to the limit of the decimal shown, but converting a duty is not selecting a fan — re-check the chosen wheel against your own external static pressure once the number is in CFM.

Conversion factor applied
2.12 CFM per L/s

Add the equipment this sizes

This result is a specification — 529.7 CFM — not a quantity. Put the thing it sizes into your project: how many, what you call it, and your supplier’s price.

Ventilation duties across the UK, Ireland, Scandinavia and Australasia are written in L/s, but fan curves, sone ratings, throw data and filter selections from North American manufacturers are published in CFM against inches of water gauge. This page serves the designer or estimator holding a metric duty and reading an imperial catalogue. The trap that belongs to this direction alone is the doubling habit: two CFM per litre per second lands 5.6% low, so a 500 L/s riser converts to 1,059 CFM rather than the 1,000 you assumed, and 59 CFM is often the gap between one wheel size and the next one up.

The route was fixed before the fan was chosen

On a bathroom refit the duct route is settled at first fix by whoever is holding the hole saw, usually weeks before anyone reads a fan curve, and it is the single decision that most often makes the job impossible afterwards. A fan sitting a metre from an outside wall with a straight run through it is a different appliance from the same fan asked to climb into a roof space, cross four rafter bays over a purlin and come out at a tile vent, even though the invoice describes both as supply and fit one extractor fan.

Bends are the expensive part, and their cost is expressed as the length of straight duct that would resist the air just as much. The general method for that arithmetic, and the fitting tables it reads from, belong to the ductwork layout guide rather than here. What is specific to a bathroom is the scale: a domestic extract fan has a very small pressure capability to begin with, so two ninety-degree bends and a short crossing can represent more resistance than the entire straight length they interrupt, and there is no larger system to absorb it.

Two placement rules pay for themselves on every job. Leave a straight length off the fan spigot before the first change of direction, because a bend hard against the outlet meets air that has not developed yet and costs more than any table says it should. And where the framing forces a change of direction, buy it with a swept bend or two forty-fives rather than a moulded square elbow. Neither costs meaningfully more to fit; both are decided at first fix and cannot be revisited once the ceiling is closed.

Turn the bends and branches on the proposed route into the straight length they are worth, since on a run this short that total routinely exceeds the duct it is interrupting.

The actual measured straight length of the duct run.

The total count of 90° elbow fittings in the duct run.

The straight-duct length that produces the same friction loss as one 90° elbow.

The total count of tee or branch fittings in the duct run.

The straight-duct length that produces the same friction loss as one tee or branch fitting.

Total equivalent duct length

119 ft

Medium confidence

Equivalent length per fitting varies by fitting type, radius/angle, and duct size — always use the specific SMACNA HVAC Duct Design Manual table entry or fitting manufacturer's data for your exact fitting, not an assumed default.

Fitting-contributed equivalent length
70 ft
49 ft
Schematic, drawn to the proportions you entered — not to scale on screen.

What this calculation does not cover

  • Two fitting types is not a duct system. Transitions, offsets, balancing and fire dampers, filters, coils, flexible connectors, and the entry and exit losses at the plenum and at the grille all carry equivalent lengths of their own — and on a short branch, the register and its damper can outweigh every elbow in the run. What comes back here is a floor under the real resistance, not the resistance.
  • An equivalent length is not a pressure. To get the static the fan has to make, this total is multiplied by the friction rate for that duct at that airflow, the figure quoted per 100 ft or per 100 m on the friction chart, and it is that pressure the fan is selected against. The same 40 m of equivalent length is a trivial loss in a generously sized trunk and a fan-stalling one in an undersized branch.

One hundred, or one hundred and twenty-five

Most domestic extract kit is supplied with a 100 mm spigot and most installers duct it in 100 mm, which is defensible on a short straight run and marginal on anything else. The bore of a 125 mm duct is a little over half again the bore of a 100 mm one, and on a run with any length or any bends in it that difference is the whole margin between a fan that clears the mirror and one that does not. Where the fan body offers the larger spigot, taking it and ducting the whole way in the larger size costs the price difference on a few metres of pipe.

The reduction that undoes all of this is the adaptor. A 125 mm fan outlet stepped down to 100 mm duct a hand's width from the housing throws away the reason the larger fan was specified, and it is easy to do accidentally because the boxed accessories often include the reducer. The same applies to flat channel duct, which is sold against a round equivalent: the equivalence is one of cross-sectional area, and area is not resistance. A rectangle carries more wetted perimeter than a circle of the same area, so the flat section costs more pressure for the same flow, and each of the two adaptors that convert to and from it costs more again.

Size the bore against the duty rather than against what the fan came fitted with, and read the velocity the answer implies, because a bathroom duct crossing a bedroom ceiling is heard long before it is measured.

Duct Size Calculator

Air the duct must carry — switch the unit to whatever your design figures are in.

Design air velocity.

Round is more efficient; rectangular fits in a joist bay.

Duct size (round diameter, or width at your depth)

10.2 in diameter

Medium confidence

Velocity sizing only. A complete design also balances the friction rate across the whole system so every branch delivers its share — see Manual D.

Duct area
82.29 in²
Diameter (mm)
259.99 mm
Airflow in L/s
188.78 L/s

Add the equipment this sizes

This result is a specification — 10.2 in diameter — not a quantity. Put the thing it sizes into your project: how many, what you call it, and your supplier’s price.

What this calculation does not cover

  • Sizes one duct at a target velocity. It does not balance a system, and a system of individually correct ducts can still deliver the wrong air to each room.
  • Fitting losses are excluded. Elbows, takeoffs and transitions often exceed the straight-duct loss in a residential run.
  • Round the result up to the nearest available size, not down — undersizing raises velocity, noise and static pressure together.

Concertina duct is not duct

Aluminium concertina flexible duct is what most domestic extract runs are actually built from, and almost everything that goes wrong with them starts there. Its resistance when pulled fully taut is already a multiple of smooth-walled rigid duct of the same diameter, because the corrugation that lets it bend is also what the air has to climb over. The compression research behind ACCA Manual D, and the installation practice set out in the Air Diffusion Council's Flexible Duct Performance and Installation Standards, put a fully extended flex duct somewhere between one and a half and three times smooth pipe, and an ordinary field installation with sag in it higher again; a run left visibly compressed or kinked leaves that range altogether.

The habitual fault is buying a three-metre length for a two-metre crossing and leaving the surplus coiled above the ceiling. That surplus does three separate kinds of damage. It multiplies resistance along its whole length. It introduces a bend radius tighter than anything the manufacturer permits. And, worst for this particular job, it puts a low point in the run where water can stand.

That low point is the mechanism behind the complaint that only ever presents in the first minute of a run. Condensate collects in the belly of the sag between showers. When the fan starts, part of that reservoir is picked up and carried, and because the fall from the sag back to the fan is shorter than the fall onward to the terminal, some of it arrives at the grille as droplets. The householder describes it as the fan spitting water, which is exactly what is happening.

Pull flex taut, cut it to the measured length rather than coiling the remainder, and support it at the spacing the manufacturer states with a strap wide enough not to bite. Where a run is long enough to need real support, the honest answer is to build it in rigid pipe and use flex only for the short connection at the fan, where its ability to absorb vibration is genuinely worth something.

Price one crossing at full extension and then price the same crossing with the slack that is about to be left above the ceiling, because the gap between those two answers is the argument for cutting it to length.

The volumetric airflow moving through the duct run.

The flex duct's nominal inside diameter.

The total length of the flex duct run.

How much higher the flex duct's actual friction runs versus smooth rigid duct, based on how well it's installed.

Estimated total friction pressure loss

0.059 in. w.g.

Low confidence

This uses a third-party curve-fit approximation of the ASHRAE Fundamentals duct friction chart, not an ASHRAE-published closed-form equation, plus a user-supplied installation-quality multiplier standing in for the actual flex-duct friction chart. For final duct design, use the specific flex duct manufacturer's published friction chart (required by ACCA Manual D Appendix 3) rather than this screening estimate — a compressed or sagging flex run can have far higher friction than the multiplier ranges shown here suggest.

Base smooth-duct friction rate (per 100 ft)
0.04 in. w.g./100 ft

Add the equipment this sizes

This result is a specification — 0.059 in. w.g. — not a quantity. Put the thing it sizes into your project: how many, what you call it, and your supplier’s price.

8 in
Schematic, drawn to the proportions you entered — not to scale on screen.

What this calculation does not cover

  • Fittings are not in this run. The number covers straight duct only, and on a flex branch the elbows, the boot at the ceiling, the takeoff collar at the trunk and the balancing damper are usually worth more pressure than the straight length is. Manual D handles them as equivalent length, and a single tight-radius bend in flex can be worth tens of feet of straight duct on its own — add those equivalent lengths into the run length above before treating this as the branch's loss.
  • One branch is not the system. What the blower has to overcome is the whole path — return grille, filter, coil, supply trunk, this branch and the register at the end — and the fan's available external static is what all of it shares. A branch that reads a comfortable 0.06 in. w.g. can still be the one that starves, because the coil and the trunk ahead of it already spent the budget.

Where the water is made, and which way it runs

A shower puts air into the duct at close to saturation and at a temperature well above the room. That air then travels through a roof space which, on the mornings when the complaints arrive, is within a degree or two of outdoors. The inside face of an unlagged duct sits at the temperature of the space around it, which puts it far below the dewpoint of the air passing over it, and the airstream gives up water onto the bore continuously for as long as the fan runs. Nothing has failed for this to happen; it is what an unlagged duct in a cold space is for.

Lagging works by moving the bore's surface temperature away from the roof space and towards the airstream. That is why the wrap has to be continuous, and why the two places it is habitually left off, the last half metre at the terminal and the connection at the fan housing, are the two places condensate is most often reported. The psychrometric relationships underneath this are set out in the ASHRAE Handbook - Fundamentals, and BS 5250, Management of Moisture in Buildings, is the document that states the practice for ducts crossing unheated spaces.

The outer jacket is doing a second, separate job, and it is the one that gets skipped. Insulation with an open or torn outer face lets humid air reach the cold duct wall from outside, where it condenses inside the insulation, wets it, destroys its performance and eventually drips onto whatever is beneath. Lap the jacket, seal every lap and both terminations, and treat a wire hanger cutting through the jacket as a defect rather than a detail.

Then give the water somewhere to go. Set the run so it falls continuously away from the fan and towards the outside terminal, so that whatever does condense drains out of the building rather than back into it. Where the geometry forces a rise, such as a fan below a duct that has to climb to a roof terminal, the manufacturer's in-line condensate trap exists precisely for that arrangement and is not optional in it. A run with a fall in one direction for two metres and the other direction for one is a run with a reservoir in it, whatever the intention was.

A lagged extract duct where it crosses the cold space

A lagged extract duct in section as it crosses a cold roof space, falling from the fan at the left towards the terminal at the right: sealed outer jacket, insulation, the duct wall, the bore, and the film of condensate lying along its low side.
  1. Vapour-tight outer jacket — lapped and sealed along its length and at both ends, or humid air reaches the cold duct wall from outside and wets the insulation from within
  2. Insulation wrap — holds the bore surface near the airstream temperature instead of near the roof space temperature, which is what stops the airstream giving up its water Duct Insulation Wrap Area Calculator
  3. Duct wall — smooth-walled rigid pipe here rather than concertina, because this is the length that has to hold a straight line and a continuous fall Duct Size Calculator
  4. Bore — carries saturated air away from the room at a velocity the bedroom next door will hear if the duct was undersized to save a fitting HVAC Duct Size Calculator
  5. Condensate film — runs to whichever end is lower, which is why the fall is set away from the fan and towards the outside terminal

Work out the wrap the crossing actually consumes from the duct perimeter and the run length, remembering that the half metre at the terminal and the collar at the fan housing are part of the run and not offcuts.

SettingsSettings for this calculation
Who is doing the work?

The standard allowance most suppliers and estimating guides assume for ordinary work.

The perimeter of the duct's cross-section (rectangular or round).

The total length of duct run to be wrapped.

Extra material to allow for overlaps, seams, and cutting around fittings.

Duct wrap material needed

290.4 ft²

High confidence

Estimated cost — your price

This site holds no price list for this material — local prices vary too much to publish honestly. Enter your supplier's price and the result is costed with it.

66 ft
Schematic, drawn to the proportions you entered — not to scale on screen.

What this calculation does not cover

  • Perimeter multiplied by length gives the duct's own outer surface, but the blanket has to pass around the outside of its own thickness, so the circumference it actually spans is larger than the perimeter entered. A rectangular duct gains roughly eight times the wrap thickness and a round duct gains 2π times it, so a run needs appreciably more blanket than its bare perimeter suggests — on a typical rectangular duct about a fifth more than the figure returned here at 10%. Enter the perimeter measured over the finished insulation if you want the ordering figure.
  • The result is an area only, and says nothing about the wrap thickness or the installed R-value that area has to deliver. Duct wrap loses a substantial part of its out-of-the-roll R-value where it is compressed at corners and under the wire or straps holding it on, and the R-value required for duct in an attic, in an unconditioned space or buried is set by the energy code in force. Buying the right area of the wrong thickness still fails that check.
  • The waste allowance is a flat percentage of the straight-run area, so it scales with length rather than with the number of fittings. Elbows, transitions, takeoffs and damper access panels are cut from rectangles larger than the surface they finish up covering, and hangers, trapeze supports and flanged joints interrupt the blanket, so a fitting-heavy run can outrun even the 20% this field allows.
  • Only the blanket itself is quantified. Outward-clinch staples, FSK or foil tape over every longitudinal and circumferential seam and staple line, and mastic where the wrap meets a flange are all separate items, and on duct carrying cooled air it is the continuity of that vapour barrier, not the area of blanket, that decides whether moisture condenses inside the insulation.
  • This is an external wrap take-off and does not estimate the alternatives. Internal acoustic liner is measured on the duct's inside faces and also cuts the free cross-section the duct delivers; rigid board and duct board are ordered as boards on a mechanical fastener grid rather than as a continuous roll.

The two ways a terminal lets water back in

The outside end is the cheapest component on the job and it decides more callbacks than the fan does. A cowl with a gravity flap sheds driven rain and closes when the fan stops; a plain louvred grille with an insect mesh behind it does neither well. Mesh is the specific offender: it collects lint from the airstream, and in cold weather the moisture in that airstream freezes on it, so the terminal that was clear in September is a solid plate by January. If mesh is required for vermin at that location, it needs to be accessible enough to be cleaned and coarse enough to survive a frost.

The back-draught flap is doing two jobs at once and both are worth checking on a wet-ceiling call. It stops wind pressure on an exposed elevation driving rain back down a duct that falls, correctly, towards the outside. And it stops the run acting as an open chimney between the bathroom and the weather when the fan is off. A flap held ajar by a screw of lint, or fitted on a run so short that it never fully closes, will produce water at the grille on a windy night with nobody in the house.

Terminating into a soffit is the detail that fails invisibly. A ventilated eave is an intake, and moist extract air discharged next to one is drawn straight back into the roof space, where it does the damage it was ducted out to avoid. The IRC and the International Mechanical Code both require local exhaust to discharge to the outdoors rather than into an attic, a crawl space or any other space inside the building, and both set separation from air intakes and from openings into the building; a discharge under a ventilated eave defeats the second requirement even where it appears to satisfy the first. Terminate through a wall or through a proper roof terminal, and keep the outlet clear of anything that breathes in.

Nothing leaves a room that nothing can enter

An extract fan does not push air out; it lowers the pressure in the room and the building supplies the difference. Close a modern bathroom door with a good draught seal onto a threshold strip over a carpet and there is no difference to supply, so the fan sits there drawing current, making noise and moving a fraction of its rating. The mirror stays fogged and every instrument reading at the grille is honest and disappointing.

The check takes a minute. Measure at the grille with the door open, then again with it shut. A large fall between those two readings is not a fan fault and no amount of upsizing repairs it; the room needs a transfer path, which on a bathroom means a deliberate undercut sized for the flow rather than whatever gap the joiner left, or a transfer grille where an undercut cannot be had. The wider question of how transfer paths are arranged across a whole dwelling is treated in the balanced ventilation guide rather than repeated here.

The roof space is not a termination, and a powered ventilator is not the cure

A duct that discharges into the roof space is the worst outcome available and it is not rare, because it happens two ways: deliberately, by someone who thought the loft counted as outside, and accidentally, when a flexible duct pulls off a tile vent spigot and lies on the insulation for a winter still running. Either way the roof space receives the entire moisture output of every shower in the house, and the first evidence is usually mould on the underside of the sheathing at the coldest end of the roof.

The reflex fix, once a wet loft has been found, is to ventilate the loft harder, and a powered roof ventilator is the product that gets reached for. It is worth seeing what such a fan is asked to move before deciding, because the airflow a rule-of-thumb sizing produces for a roof space is an order of magnitude above what the extract fan puts up there, and moving that much air out of a roof space means drawing the same amount in. If the intake at the eaves cannot supply it, the fan takes it through the ceiling instead, which pulls conditioned and humid air out of the house and can steal flow from the extract duct it was installed to compensate for.

The repair is the duct, every time: reconnect it, clamp it, lag it, fall it, and terminate it through the roof covering or the wall. How the roof space's own intake and exhaust are balanced afterwards, and the net free area arithmetic behind that, is the roof ventilation guide's subject and not this one's.

See the airflow a powered roof ventilator is sized to move before anyone specifies one as the answer to a wet loft, because that number has to be drawn in through the eaves and will otherwise be drawn through the ceiling.

The total floor area of the attic space.

Minimum fan CFM

756 CFM (minimum)

Medium confidence

Dark roofs, steep pitches, and hot climates all increase attic heat load beyond this baseline rule of thumb — size toward the higher end of available fan models if any of those apply.

Attic area
1,080 sq ft

Add the equipment this sizes

This result is a specification — 756 CFM (minimum) — not a quantity. Put the thing it sizes into your project: how many, what you call it, and your supplier’s price.

What this calculation does not cover

  • Floor area is the only geometry this uses. Roof pitch, ridge height and attic depth never enter the formula, so a shallow hip and a steep gable over the same footprint return the same CFM even though the steep one holds far more air to turn over.
  • It does not check that the attic has enough intake. A fan sized from this number still needs matching net free intake area at the soffits; starved of intake it pulls make-up air out of the house through ceiling leaks, which can depressurise the top floor and backdraft an atmospherically vented water heater or furnace. Size the intake separately before you buy the fan.
  • Nothing adjusts for roof colour, climate, insulation level, radiant barrier, or existing ridge and gable venting — the same divisor is applied to every attic. Dark roofs, steep pitches and hot climates all put the real heat load above this baseline.
  • This is a rule-of-thumb equipment sizing figure, not a code calculation. Codes govern attic ventilation as net free vent area against attic floor area, and fitting a powered fan does not remove that requirement.
  • Rated CFM is not delivered CFM. Shutters, insect screens, a clogged louver and static pressure at the opening all cut what the fan actually moves, and the figure here makes no allowance for that, for the thermostat or humidistat setpoint, or for splitting the airflow across more than one fan.

Proving it at the grille

None of the above is finished until the flow leaving the room has been measured. A tissue held against the grille tells you the fan is running and nothing else; it will stick just as convincingly at a third of the design rate. The Domestic Ventilation Compliance Guide, which supports Approved Document F, treats measurement of installed air flow rates as part of the installation rather than as an optional extra, and it is the only evidence that the run is doing what the fan was chosen to do.

Measure at the grille rather than at the fan, because everything worth finding lies between the two. Use a vane anemometer with the correct hood for the terminal, or a powered flow meter, and take the reading with the room in its normal state. Where the reading falls short, the sequence below narrows it to a component rather than to an opinion, and each step changes exactly one thing.

Write the result down where the next person will find it: measured flow, the duty it was measured against, duct type and bore, the run length, whether it is lagged, and the fall direction. A photograph of the run taken before the ceiling closed is worth more than any of it, and costs nothing.

  1. Measure at the grille with the bathroom door open and record it against the design duty.
  2. Repeat with the door shut; a large drop is a make-up air problem, not a fan problem.
  3. Disconnect at the fan spigot and read the fan into free air; if that figure is also low, the fault is the appliance or its wiring.
  4. Look along the run with a torch for sag, coiled surplus and any bend tighter than the manufacturer permits.
  5. Check the terminal flap opens fully with the fan running and closes cleanly when it stops.
  6. Clear any mesh at the terminal and re-measure; a blocked screen can halve a reading on its own.
  7. Confirm the wrap is continuous and its jacket sealed at the housing collar and at the terminal.
  8. Verify the fall runs away from the fan for the whole length, and that any rise has its condensate trap fitted.

What the second winter shows

Extract runs drift in predictable ways and all of them are visible if the first measurement was recorded. A flow that has fallen with nothing else changed is usually the terminal, lint on a mesh or a flap that no longer swings freely. Water reappearing after two dry winters is usually the jacket, which has been opened by a hanger or by somebody laying loft boards over the run, letting the insulation take up moisture and lose its point.

Control settings drift too, and they drift towards nuisance. Humidistats get wound down because the fan came on while somebody was asleep, and over-run timers get shortened to the minimum for the same reason, which returns the bathroom to a room that never quite clears. If a fan is annoying enough that it keeps getting turned down, the honest fix is a quieter unit or a continuously running one at a low rate, not a shorter run time on a fan that already had too little of it.

What the van needs before the ceiling closes

A bathroom extract run is decided by things that are unreachable a day later, so this is the list that has to be on board at first fix rather than at handover.

  • Rigid smooth-walled duct in the bore the duty needs — Flex only for the short connection at the fan; the crossing itself wants a straight line and a continuous fall.
  • Pre-insulated duct or wrap plus a sealable vapour jacket — Enough to run continuously, including the collar at the housing and the last half metre at the terminal.
  • Swept bends, or two forty-fives, in the same bore as the run — Decided at first fix; a moulded square elbow costs the same to fit and cannot be swapped afterwards.
  • External cowl with a working gravity flap — Not a louvred grille with mesh behind it, which collects lint and frosts shut over one winter.
  • In-line condensate trap where the run has to rise — The only correct answer to a fan below a duct climbing to a roof terminal.
  • Vane anemometer and the fan's certified curve — The handover evidence is a measured flow at the grille, not a tissue stuck to it.
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Drawn from

  • ANSI/ASHRAE Standard 62.2, Ventilation and Acceptable Indoor Air Quality in Residential Buildings
  • Approved Document F, Ventilation (England)
  • Domestic Ventilation Compliance Guide (supporting Approved Document F)
  • BS 5250, Management of Moisture in Buildings
  • BS EN 13141, Ventilation for Buildings - Performance Testing of Components and Products for Residential Ventilation
  • ASHRAE Handbook - Fundamentals, psychrometrics and duct design chapters
  • Home Ventilating Institute, Certified Products Directory and its airflow and sound rating procedures
  • Air Diffusion Council, Flexible Duct Performance and Installation Standards
  • ACCA Manual D, Residential Duct Systems
  • UL 181, Standard for Factory-Made Air Ducts and Air Connectors
  • International Residential Code and International Mechanical Code, exhaust system and termination provisions as adopted locally
  • The fan manufacturer's installation instructions and the certified performance curve for the specific model

Guidance, not a specification. Local codes, the engineer of record and the product manufacturer’s instructions govern where they differ from anything written here.