SettingsSettings for this calculationUS
Whether any of the runs meet at a corner.
A corner puts a worktop joint there and takes a worktop depth off the later run's units, because they start at the front of the earlier run's worktop. The later run's worktop is a depth shorter too at a butt joint, but not at a 45 degree mitre, where both pieces run into the corner — the corner joint field says which. Runs split by a freestanding cooker, a range or a tall fridge-freezer are separate runs: the worktop, plinth and units stop at it.
The first run of base units, measured along the wall from end to end, into the corner where it turns one.
Measure at worktop height, from wall to wall or from the wall to where the run stops. Enter the run that holds the appliance spaces as run 1: they are taken off this run. For an L or a U, measure each run along its own wall right into the corner; the page takes off the overlap itself.
Tools needed: Tape measure
A second run of base units, measured along its wall into any corner. Zero for a single run.
In an L or a U this is the run that meets run 1 at the corner, measured right into the corner. In a galley it is the opposite side. When the two meet, its units start at the front of run 1's worktop, and so does its worktop at a butt joint; at a mitre its worktop runs into the corner.
A third run of base units — the far leg of a U, or a run on its own. Zero if there is none.
In a U it meets run 2 at the second corner and is measured into that corner. In an L it stands apart: the other side of a cooker, a range or a tall unit, or a separate wall.
The total width left under the worktop for integrated appliances — a dishwasher, a washing machine, a fridge — with the plinth running across them.
No unit goes in these spaces, but the worktop and the plinth run across them, because an integrated appliance takes a door and a plinth that match the units. Take each width from the appliance's installation instructions, which give the opening it needs — often a little more than its nominal width. A sink sits in a sink unit of its own, so it is not a space here.
The total width left under the worktop for freestanding appliances that have their own kick plate, so the plinth stops at them.
A freestanding dishwasher or washing machine slid under the worktop, as most US dishwashers are, has its own front and kick plate. The worktop runs across it; no unit or plinth does. Freestanding cookers, ranges and tall fridge-freezers are full height: split the run at them and enter the two sides as separate runs.
Where the appliance spaces sit between two stretches of base units on run 1, the length of units from the start of the run to the first space. Zero where the spaces are at an end.
Units either side of a dishwasher are two stretches, and each is filled with its own units and its own filler, which can change both the count and the fillers from filling them as one length. The page treats the appliance spaces as one block: if they are apart, measure to the first, and the rest of run 1's units are the other stretch. A figure at or beyond the length of run 1's units means the spaces are at the far end.
The length of wall to be covered with wall units along run 1, with the cooker hood and any window left out.
Measure along the wall, into the corner where the run turns one, and take off the hood, a window and any open shelving. Where the hood or a window splits the row, say where in the next field, so each stretch is filled with its own units and filler. Zero where there are none.
Where a hood or a window splits the wall units over run 1, the length of wall units on the first side of it — 1.2 m (4 ft) by default. Zero for an unbroken row.
The stretches either side of a hood are two rows of units, each filled with its own widths and its own filler: two 1.4 m (4 ft 7 in) stretches of metric units take three units each, where one 2.8 m (9 ft 2 in) row would take five in all. Only one break is taken; zero, or a figure at or beyond the wall-unit length, fills the row in one piece.
The length of wall to be covered with wall units along run 2, into the corner, with the hood and any window left out.
Where run 1 and run 2 meet at a corner and both have wall units, run 2's wall units start at the front of run 1's, so the page takes a wall-unit depth off this length.
The length of wall to be covered with wall units along run 3, with the hood and any window left out.
In a U, run 3's wall units start at the front of run 2's where both have them, and the page takes a wall-unit depth off this length.
The width most of the units will be, in the widths your measurement system's units are made in.
Each run is filled with as many units of this width as fit, then one or two of the other standard widths make up the rest. Where units are made to metric sizes the widths run from 200 to 1000 mm, with 600 mm the usual module; US cabinets run from 9 to 48 in in 3 in steps, with 24 in common. A 24 in cabinet is 609.6 mm, not 600 mm, so switching the measurement system switches the product and can change the count. The same main width is used for the wall units.
The widest gap you will close with a filler panel rather than a narrower unit — 150 mm (6 in) by default.
Whatever the units do not fill is closed with a filler strip cut to width. A leftover wider than this makes the page use a different unit instead. US cabinet makers sell fillers 3 in and 6 in (76 and 152 mm) wide. Where a door meets a wall it needs a filler anyway so it can open past the wall — one US maker asks for at least 1 in (25 mm) — even when the units fill the run exactly.
How far the worktop comes out from the wall — 600 mm (24 in) is usual; US counters are often 25 in (635 mm).
It is taken off the later run's units at each corner, because they start at the front edge of the earlier run's worktop, and off the later run's worktop at a butt joint. It is also the plinth's return at an open end, where the plinth turns back along the side of the end unit, as the supplier method this page follows allows.
How far the wall units stand out from the wall with their doors on — about 330 mm (13 in).
Metric wall carcasses are commonly 300 mm deep before the door, and US wall cabinets 12 in (305 mm). This depth is taken off the later wall run at each corner, and is the cornice or pelmet return at each open end — a little shorter than the 400 mm (16 in) nominal return one supplier adds, so round the order up if the profile projects far.
How many ends of the base runs stand free rather than against a wall, a tall unit or an appliance — each one takes an end panel and a plinth return.
A run between two walls has none. A run that stops in the room — a peninsula, or the end of an L short of the door — has one at that end. Count every run's ends across the kitchen.
How many ends of the wall-unit runs are exposed — each one takes an end panel and a cornice and pelmet return.
Wall units either side of a cooker hood have an exposed end each side of it, and a row that stops short of a wall or a window has one there. An end against a wall or a tall unit is not open.
The length the worktop is sold in, in the lengths of the measurement system you have chosen.
Laminate worktops sold in metric sizes come in 3.0, 3.6 and 4.1 m lengths at 600 mm deep; US post-form laminate counters in 8, 10 and 12 ft. Stone and solid surfaces are made to a template of the finished units instead, so this count does not apply to them. A longer length can save a joint: the page puts one wherever a run outgrows a length.
How much longer than it covers each worktop piece is cut, so its ends can be squared and scribed — 20 mm (3/4 in) by default.
A factory end is rarely a finished end, and a piece that meets a wall is scribed to it. The allowance is added to every piece, so a run that exactly matches a stock length needs a longer length or a joint. Set it to zero to count the lengths with nothing to spare.
How the worktop meets at an L or U corner, which decides how long the later run's piece is.
At a butt joint or a masons mitre one worktop runs into the corner and the other stops against its front edge, so the later piece is a worktop depth shorter. US post-form counters meet at a 45 degree mitre, made at the factory and drawn together with miter bolts: each piece's back edge runs into the corner, so both are cut at their full wall length, and no two mitred pieces are cut from one length. The joint does not change the units, which start at the front of the earlier run's worktop either way.
The length the plinth (toe kick), cornice and light pelmet are sold in.
One UK kitchen supplier lists plinth in 2600, 2750 and 3000 mm lengths and cornice and pelmet in 2700 and 3000 mm; one US cabinet maker lists its toe kick and crown mouldings at 94 in. Choose another length if yours differs; all three are counted in the same length.
Whether the base units stand on adjustable legs, which are counted, or on a toe kick built into the cabinet.
Metric flat-pack and rigid carcasses usually stand on adjustable legs with the plinth clipped to them; US face-frame cabinets usually have the toe kick built into the box and a thin toe kick skin across it. The page counts four legs a unit; the carcass maker may want more under units wider than 600 mm (24 in).
Which item the headline figure is; everything else is listed underneath either way.
Choose the item you are adding to a project or ordering, and the headline becomes that count. The breakdown always shows every item for the whole kitchen.
The item chosen to lead
5 units
- Base units
- 5 units
- 24 in base units
- 4 units
- 12 in base units
- 1 unit
- Base fillers, one for each stretch left short
- 0 fillers
- Wall units
- 5 units
- 24 in wall units
- 4 units
- 12 in wall units
- 1 unit
- Wall fillers, one for each stretch left short
- 0 fillers
- Worktop to cover, corners counted once
- 11 ft
- Worktop stock length
- 12 ft
- Worktop lengths to buy
- 1 length
- Worktop joints at corners
- 0 joints
- Worktop joints within a run
- 0 joints
- Plinth (toe kick), returns included
- 11 ft
- Plinth lengths to buy
- 2 lengths
- Cornice, and the same again for a light pelmet
- 11.17 ft
- Cornice lengths to buy, and the same for a pelmet
- 2 lengths
- Stock length of plinth, cornice and pelmet
- 94 in
- End panels on the base runs
- 0 panels
- End panels on the wall-unit runs
- 2 panels
- Legs — none, the toe kick is built in
- 0 pieces
They open the calculator with your figures already in it
Kitchen Unit and Cabinet Run Calculator: 5 units — shown in imperial, US market. The link sets both, so the result they see is the one on your screen.
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How this was calculated
Formula source(s)
- CATAS, UNI EN 1116:2018 Coordinating sizes for kitchen furniture and kitchen appliances (A. Giavon, 2018), summarising the standard: worktop heights of 850, 900 and 950 mm, a worktop depth of at least 600 mm, wall units between 310 and 400 mm deep, at least 450 mm between the worktop and the underside of a wall unit, a plinth at least 80 mm high, and nominal unit widths of 400, 500, 600 and 900 mm for appliance housings. It co-ordinates sizes; it does not publish a ladder of unit widths
- Howdens, Kitchen installation manual, Guide - hints and tips and Cabinet overview: Hi-Line base units and full height wall units in 200, 300, 350, 400, 450, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900 and 1000 mm widths; installation starts in a corner and works out along the walls; plinths, pelmets and cornice are fitted at the end
- Cabinet Corp, Standard Cabinet Sizes and Dimensions Guide: US base and wall cabinets from 9 to 48 in wide in 3 in increments; base cabinets 34.5 in high; wall cabinets most commonly 12 in deep; filler cabinets in 3, 6 and 9 in widths
- American Woodmark, Simply Woodmark PRO Specification Guide (February 2025): base cabinets built with an inset toe kick; toe kick 4 in high and 94 in long; crown mouldings 94 in long; 3 in and 6 in fillers; at least a 1 in filler between the hinged side of a full overlay door and a wall, an appliance or a deeper cabinet
- DIY Kitchens, How to calculate plinth, cornice and pelmet requirements: plinth = the widths of the base units, tall units and integrated appliances plus a nominal 600 mm for each return, in 2600, 2750 or 3000 mm lengths; cornice = the widths of the wall units, tall units and dressers, and pelmet = the widths of the wall units, each plus 400 mm for each return, in 2700 or 3000 mm lengths; the total divided by the length and rounded up
- Wren Kitchens, Installation guides: four adjustable legs on cabinets up to 600 mm wide, with 800, 900 and 1000 mm cabinets given a number of their own and eight legs under a 972 mm L-shaped corner cabinet; a 150 mm plinth line; one continuous plinth fitted below the run once the base cabinets are level
- Screwfix, kitchen worktops by length: 600 × 38 mm laminate worktops listed in 3000 mm and 3600 mm lengths
- B&Q, 38 mm laminate kitchen worktop, 4100 × 600 mm
- Hunker, How to install post-form laminate countertops: post-form counters come in 8, 10 and 12 ft lengths (citing Norfolk Kitchen and Bath); corners are mitred at 45 degrees and drawn together with miter bolts
- Units: as many of the main width as fit, then at most two other standard widths to bring the leftover within the maximum filler. Worktop: at a butt joint the later run a worktop depth shorter, at a mitre each run its full wall length; each run in pieces of no more than the stock length less the allowance, joints at each full length, end pieces packed longest first, no two mitred pieces in one length. Plinth, cornice and pelmet: run plus returns, divided by the stock length, rounded up.
Inputs used
- How the Runs Meet
- Separately — one straight run, a galley, or runs broken by a cooker or tall unit
- Run 1 Length
- 11 ft
- Run 2 Length (0 if None)
- 0 ft
- Run 3 Length (0 if None)
- 0 ft
- Integrated Appliance Spaces
- 24 in
- Freestanding Under-Counter Spaces
- 0 in
- Run 1 Base Units Before the Appliance Spaces
- 0 ft
- Wall Units Over Run 1
- 9 ft
- Run 1 Wall Units Before the Hood or Window
- 4 ft
- Wall Units Over Run 2
- 0 ft
- Wall Units Over Run 3
- 0 ft
- Main Unit Width
- 24 in — the usual module
- Largest Filler Before Another Unit
- 6 in
- Worktop Depth
- 24 in
- Wall Unit Depth, Door Included
- 13 in
- Open Ends of the Base Runs
- 0
- Open Ends of the Wall-Unit Runs
- 2
- Worktop Stock Length
- 12 ft
- Extra Length on Each Worktop Piece
- 0.75 in
- Worktop Joint at a Corner
- The usual for US post-form counters — a 45 degree mitre
- Plinth, Cornice and Pelmet Length
- 94 in
- Plinth, Cornice and Pelmet Length, From the Supplier
- 9 ft
- What the Base Units Stand On
- The usual for US cabinets — a toe kick built into the cabinet box
- Lead the Answer With
- Base units
Intermediate steps
- Base units
- 5 units
- 24 in base units
- 4 units
- 12 in base units
- 1 unit
- Base fillers, one for each stretch left short
- 0 fillers
- Wall units
- 5 units
- 24 in wall units
- 4 units
- 12 in wall units
- 1 unit
- Wall fillers, one for each stretch left short
- 0 fillers
- Worktop to cover, corners counted once
- 11 ft
- Worktop stock length
- 12 ft
- Worktop lengths to buy
- 1 length
- Worktop joints at corners
- 0 joints
- Worktop joints within a run
- 0 joints
- Plinth (toe kick), returns included
- 11 ft
- Plinth lengths to buy
- 2 lengths
- Cornice, and the same again for a light pelmet
- 11.17 ft
- Cornice lengths to buy, and the same for a pelmet
- 2 lengths
- Stock length of plinth, cornice and pelmet
- 94 in
- End panels on the base runs
- 0 panels
- End panels on the wall-unit runs
- 2 panels
- Legs — none, the toe kick is built in
- 0 pieces
What this calculation does not cover
- It fills lengths; it does not design the kitchen. Each run takes as many units of the main width as fit, then at most two other standard widths to bring what is left within the largest filler — so the sink, drawer and corner units a real plan puts in particular places are not placed, and a designer's mix of widths will often differ even where the count does not.
- Appliance widths are the ones you type, and they come from the appliance: its installation instructions give the opening it needs. Every appliance space is taken off run 1, so a kitchen with appliances in two runs fills run 1 short and the other run long by that width. The spaces are one block and the hood or window one break: run 1's base units and its wall units each split into two stretches at most, filled separately, so a row broken twice — or broken on run 2 or 3 — is filled as fewer stretches than it has, which can leave a unit and a filler uncounted. Tall units, larders and oven housings are not counted, nor is the plinth or cornice along them.
- Corners are not designed. At each corner the later run's units start at the front of the earlier run's worktop and the corner square is filled from the earlier run with standard widths; a real corner takes a corner unit — a blind corner, an L-shaped carcass or a carousel — with the corner post or filler its maker specifies, so one of that run's units becomes it.
- A run the units fill exactly is shown with no filler, but a door that opens against a wall still needs one — one US maker asks for at least 1 in (25 mm) — and scribing an out-of-square wall is not allowed for.
- At a butt joint or masons mitre the later run's worktop starts at the earlier one's front edge; at a 45 degree mitre both pieces run into the corner, each piece with a mitred end is given a length of its own, and a run mitred at both ends — the middle of a U — has to be ordered mitred at both ends or jointed within the run, which is not counted. Worktop joints within a run are put at each full stock length from the run's start, or from its mitre; a fitter moves them to a unit side, away from the sink and hob, and where the last piece would be only a sliver a longer length avoids the joint. Offcuts serve another run only where a whole piece fits in what a length has left. Stone and solid surfaces are made to a template, not cut from stock.
- Plinth, cornice and pelmet are counted as suppliers count them — the run with its returns, divided by the stock length and rounded up — which assumes the offcuts make up the short pieces. Each return is the depth of the unit it wraps. Legs are four a base unit; wider and corner units can need more. Nothing here is a price, a fitting time or a delivery.
Estimated cost — your price
This site holds no price list for this material — local prices vary too much to publish honestly. Enter your supplier's price and the result is costed with it.
Part of a bigger job
This trade is one line of a job takeoff. Run the whole job and every other trade comes back with it, off the same measurements.
also measures11 other trades
Computed in your browser — nothing you enter is uploaded. Presented in US customary units and US trade terminology. Where a formula follows a published standard, that standard and its edition are cited beside it on this page; where none governs, the page says so. Local amendments override model codes — verify against the code in force where you build.
Sources checked 2026-09-26 · v1.0.0
Regulatory standards & verification citations10
- CATAS, UNI EN 1116:2018 Coordinating sizes for kitchen furniture and kitchen appliances (A. Giavon, 2018), summarising the standard: worktop heights of 850, 900 and 950 mm, a worktop depth of at least 600 mm, wall units between 310 and 400 mm deep, at least 450 mm between the worktop and the underside of a wall unit, a plinth at least 80 mm high, and nominal unit widths of 400, 500, 600 and 900 mm for appliance housings. It co-ordinates sizes; it does not publish a ladder of unit widths
- Howdens, Kitchen installation manual, Guide - hints and tips and Cabinet overview: Hi-Line base units and full height wall units in 200, 300, 350, 400, 450, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900 and 1000 mm widths; installation starts in a corner and works out along the walls; plinths, pelmets and cornice are fitted at the end
- Cabinet Corp, Standard Cabinet Sizes and Dimensions Guide: US base and wall cabinets from 9 to 48 in wide in 3 in increments; base cabinets 34.5 in high; wall cabinets most commonly 12 in deep; filler cabinets in 3, 6 and 9 in widths
- American Woodmark, Simply Woodmark PRO Specification Guide (February 2025): base cabinets built with an inset toe kick; toe kick 4 in high and 94 in long; crown mouldings 94 in long; 3 in and 6 in fillers; at least a 1 in filler between the hinged side of a full overlay door and a wall, an appliance or a deeper cabinet
- DIY Kitchens, How to calculate plinth, cornice and pelmet requirements: plinth = the widths of the base units, tall units and integrated appliances plus a nominal 600 mm for each return, in 2600, 2750 or 3000 mm lengths; cornice = the widths of the wall units, tall units and dressers, and pelmet = the widths of the wall units, each plus 400 mm for each return, in 2700 or 3000 mm lengths; the total divided by the length and rounded up
- Wren Kitchens, Installation guides: four adjustable legs on cabinets up to 600 mm wide, with 800, 900 and 1000 mm cabinets given a number of their own and eight legs under a 972 mm L-shaped corner cabinet; a 150 mm plinth line; one continuous plinth fitted below the run once the base cabinets are level
- Screwfix, kitchen worktops by length: 600 × 38 mm laminate worktops listed in 3000 mm and 3600 mm lengths
- B&Q, 38 mm laminate kitchen worktop, 4100 × 600 mm
- Hunker, How to install post-form laminate countertops: post-form counters come in 8, 10 and 12 ft lengths (citing Norfolk Kitchen and Bath); corners are mitred at 45 degrees and drawn together with miter bolts
- Units: as many of the main width as fit, then at most two other standard widths to bring the leftover within the maximum filler. Worktop: at a butt joint the later run a worktop depth shorter, at a mitre each run its full wall length; each run in pieces of no more than the stock length less the allowance, joints at each full length, end pieces packed longest first, no two mitred pieces in one length. Plinth, cornice and pelmet: run plus returns, divided by the stock length, rounded up.
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Tools and safety for this job
To fit the kitchen base units, hang the kitchen wall units, cut and fit the worktop, fit plinths, cornice and pelmet and fit end panels and fillers. Generic types, no brands, no prices.
Protection this work requires
- Cutting or grinding concrete, masonry, screed, tile or fibre-cement board releases respirable silica: cut wet or extract at the tool, and wear a P2/N95 respirator at minimum — a nuisance dust mask does not filter it.
- Hardwood dust is a recognised carcinogen: extract at the tool and wear a P2/N95 respirator when cutting or sanding indoors.
- Saws, grinders and breakers run above 85 dB, where hearing damage accumulates and does not recover: defenders or plugs for every cut, not just the long ones.
- Breakers and grinders cause permanent nerve damage: limit continuous trigger time, keep hands warm, and stop if fingers tingle or blanch.
- Boards, blocks and bagged material cause most lasting back injuries on small sites: two people or a lifter for full sheets, and never a bag on one shoulder up a ladder.
- Most fatal falls on small jobs are from under three metres: use a tower or a ladder tied at the top, and never work off the top two rungs.
Show the 14 tools this job needsHide tools
Essential
Cable and pipe detector
Circular saw
Combination or framing square
Cordless drill/driver
Jigsaw
Mitre saw
SDS rotary hammer
Spirit level
Step ladder
Tape measure
Recommended
Caulking gun
Dust extractor or vacuum with a fine filter
Hole saw set
Laser level
Also needed as materials: caulk and sealant cartridges, circular saw blades, drill and driver bits, jigsaw blades, mitre saw blades, SDS bits and chisels.
what each carpentry tool is for, and the spec that decides which to buy where one does.