Plumbing & HVAC

Greenhouse Heating BTU Calculator

Estimate the heater size needed to keep a greenhouse warm, based on glazing type and temperature difference.

  • Answers as you type
  • Every formula cited
  • Calculated in your browser
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The total area of the covering — roof and walls — not the floor.

Heat leaves through the covering, so this is the surface it crosses: roof plus sidewalls plus both end walls. THIS FIELD ASKED FOR THE FLOOR AREA UNTIL 2026-09-02, which undersized every result, because the factors below are per square foot of covering. For a hoop house, the arc length across the hoop times the length, plus the two ends; for a gable house, the two roof slopes plus two sidewalls plus two gable ends. The covering runs to roughly twice the footprint on a compact hoop and three times or more on a gable house with tall sidewalls, so if you only have the footprint, that is the scaling to apply — and measure it properly before ordering a heater.

Double-layer poly traps an insulating air gap, losing much less heat than single-layer film or glass.

An inflation blower keeps the air gap between the two poly layers, which is what gives double-poly its efficiency advantage.

The difference between your desired inside temperature and the coldest expected outside temperature.

E.g. a 60°F target minus a 20°F winter low gives a 40°F difference.

Recommended heater size (BTU/hr)

20,600 BTU/hr

Medium confidence

This estimates glazing heat loss only — wind exposure, air leaks around vents and doors, and the greenhouse's surface-area-to-volume ratio (smaller structures lose heat faster per sq ft) can all push real requirements higher.

Covering area
430 sq ft
Same output in kW
6.05 kW
Then change the inputs to see how far the answer moves.

Show calculation logic

How this was calculated

Formula source(s)

  • Commonly cited greenhouse heat-loss factors (BTU/hr per sq ft per °F of temperature difference): single-layer poly film ~1.2, double-layer inflated poly ~0.7, glass ~1.1 — air leakage, wind exposure and glazing condition change these materially, and a U-value for the glazing actually installed governs

Inputs used

Covering Area (glazed surface)
430 sq ft
Glazing Type
Single-layer poly film
Temperature Difference
40 °F

Intermediate steps

Covering area
430 sq ft
Same output in kW
6.05 kW
Final result20,637.94 BTU/hr

Confidence note: This estimates glazing heat loss only — wind exposure, air leaks around vents and doors, and the greenhouse's surface-area-to-volume ratio (smaller structures lose heat faster per sq ft) can all push real requirements higher.

What this calculation does not cover

  • Small houses lose proportionally more than this model suggests, because heat loss scales with surface area while the useful growing volume scales with the cube of the dimension. A propagation frame therefore needs more heat per square metre of glazing than a commercial span, and no surface-to-volume penalty is applied here.
  • The covering area is taken as typed and nothing checks it against the structure you actually have. This limitation used to say the covering area 'never enters the calculation', which was true of an earlier floor-area version of this page and is now the opposite of the truth — the glazed surface IS the primary input. What remains is that you have to work that area out yourself, from the sidewalls, the gable ends and the developed length of the roof or arch, and it is always larger than the footprint. Two greenhouses on the same slab, a 1.2 m (4 ft) cold frame and a walk-in with 2.4 m (8 ft) sidewalls, are different numbers here only because you enter different areas.
  • Air leakage is excluded. Vent louvres, roll-up sides, door gaps, torn film and an unsealed base skirt admit a separate infiltration load on top of conduction through the covering, and on a loosely sealed or ageing structure that load is a large share of the total.
  • Site conditions are excluded: wind speed and exposure, which strip heat from a thin covering far faster than still air; perimeter and ground losses at the foundation; and shelter from buildings, walls or hedging. An exposed field and a sheltered walled garden get the same answer.
  • Only three coverings are offered. Thermal or blackout screens drawn at night, a bubble-wrap liner, an insulated north wall, twin-wall polycarbonate, double-wall acrylic, or poly overlaid on old glass cannot be represented by picking one of the listed options, and each of those changes the loss rate materially.
  • This is a heat-loss rate, not a heater specification. It carries no allowance for burner efficiency, altitude derate, pull-down after the doors have been open, or the fan and thermostat control needed to hold an even temperature end to end. Any fired heater must still be sized, vented and supplied with combustion air to the manufacturer's data and the applicable fuel-gas code.

Add the equipment this sizes

This result is a specification — 20,600 BTU/hr — not a quantity. Put the thing it sizes into your project: how many, what you call it, and your supplier’s price.

20.74 ft6.32 m20.74 ft6.32 mequivalent area430 sq ft39.95 m²10 ft2 m

Computed in your browser — nothing you enter is uploaded. Presented in US customary units and US trade terminology. Where a formula follows a published standard, that standard and its edition are cited beside it on this page; where none governs, the page says so. Local amendments override model codes — verify against the code in force where you build.

Sources checked 2026-09-06 · in the site-wide review of 2026-09-06 · v1.1.1

Regulatory standards & verification citations1
  1. Commonly cited greenhouse heat-loss factors (BTU/hr per sq ft per °F of temperature difference): single-layer poly film ~1.2, double-layer inflated poly ~0.7, glass ~1.1 — air leakage, wind exposure and glazing condition change these materially, and a U-value for the glazing actually installed governs
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Your workspace

Most jobs need more than one number. Add the calculators you need next and they open right here, underneath this one — your figures stay on screen and nothing is lost to a page change.

Now that you have the number

These guides cover the work this quantity is for.

How to calculate greenhouse heating BTU in 4 steps

  1. Covering Area (glazed surface)The total area of the covering — roof and walls — not the floor.
  2. Glazing TypeDouble-layer poly traps an insulating air gap, losing much less heat than single-layer film or glass.
  3. Temperature DifferenceThe difference between your desired inside temperature and the coldest expected outside temperature.
  4. Recommended heater size (BTU/hr)The tool computes the recommended heater size (BTU/hr) from those figures and shows the formula, its sources, and a confidence rating alongside it.

Recommended heater size (BTU/hr) by covering area (glazed surface)

Page defaults, not your figures above.

Covering Area (glazed surface)Recommended heater size (BTU/hr) (BTU/hr)
200 sq ft9,599
300 sq ft14,399
400 sq ft19,198
500 sq ft23,998
600 sq ft28,797
700 sq ft33,597
800 sq ft38,396

Frequently asked questions

Why does double-layer poly need so much less heat than single-layer?
The trapped air gap between the two layers acts as an insulating buffer, similar to how double-pane windows outperform single-pane — it roughly cuts heat loss per square foot compared to a single layer of the same material.
Does this account for the sun's free heat during the day?
No — this sizes for worst-case heat loss (typically overnight, no sun), which is the standard conservative approach for heater sizing since you need heat exactly when there's no solar gain to help.
Should I heat the whole greenhouse or just a section?
For overwintering only sensitive plants, some growers heat just a smaller enclosed section within the greenhouse rather than the whole structure, which can significantly reduce the heater size needed — recalculate using just that section's area if so.
Preliminary estimate, not certified engineering. This tool produces an indicative quantity calculation for planning purposes only — it is not a certified structural analysis, a guaranteed material takeoff, or a substitute for building department approval. Always verify measurements on-site and have a licensed contractor or structural engineer review any load-bearing, code-sensitive, or safety-critical work before purchasing materials or starting construction. Spotted an arithmetic or standards error? Report it to contact@craftquantities.com with your inputs — a confirmed fix gets a permanent check of its own, so the same mistake cannot come back.